Much is written about the over-tourism of Venice, and it is a fact that the more than 4.5 million annual tourists, many of them day- and cruise-trippers who add little value to the city, remain a sizeable problem. But these days a more exciting, hopeful story is unfolding behind the scene. La Serenissima, often described as a place where hardly anything ever changes, is in midst of a cultural Renaissance, with a small but refined group of artists, artisans, chefs, curators and tastemakers puttin...
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