embankment river Moyka, 84, St Petersburg, Russia, 190000
In a building facing the Moika river, EM takes the concept of a chef’s table one step further, as Chef Olesia Drubot cooks entirely in an open kitchen facing diners' tables. She prepares everything from the bread to the beef and dessert at an AGA stove, while the sommelier pairs each course with Russian wines. Each evening you can choose a three- or seven-course menu with a number of small courses, such as cucumber gazpacho with chanterelles and blackberries or scallop ceviche with honey sabayon and caviar, followed by a main course and a surprising dessert like tomato granita with basil and currant. The owner, whose initials are E.M., calls it modernist cuisine, but the experience is wonderfully intimate, as though you are in the home of a generous friend, who just so happens to be an enormously talented chef.
Written by Melissa Biggs Bradley