Editors' Picks

Ballyfin Demesne

Refined, Regency romantic, embracing

Ballyfin, Co. Laois 00000


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Indagare Adored

At a Glance

A scenic 90-minute drive from central Dublin, Ballyfin is a historic estate where the best of Irish hospitality and countryside grandeur meet. From the clean lines of the 19th-century Neoclassical stone mansion to the smiles and stories of the wonderful staff—many of whom have been at the property for years—every detail has been considered, while preserving warmth and intimacy. The inviting library, drawing room and dining room are filled with art, antiques, textiles and books, and guests gather around the fireplaces. Sitting on 614 acres of kelly-green pastures and woodlands, with a lake, follies, wildflowers and eight acres of walled gardens, Ballyfin is rich in both beauty and personality, evoking visions of balls, teatime rendezvous and lively hunts. The vast grounds are ideal for strolling or bike riding, and there are plenty of other activities, including culinary and outdoor programs—the true pursuit of Ballyfin is refined leisure.

**The Standout:** The 20 mansion rooms and Gardener’s Cottage—all one-of-a-kind masterpieces with unique details, from 17th-century Flemish tapestries to gilded fourposter bed frames and hand-painted wallpaper **Don’t Miss:** A horse-drawn-carriage ride through the demesne with head butler Lionel Chadwick, followed by a private lunch at the Picnic House

Indagare Loves

  • The ample farm-to-table meals, featuring fruits and vegetables grown in the gardens and locally sourced products
  • Activities, ranging from falconry, shooting and archery to whiskey tastings, cooking classes and spa treatments
  • The collection of 19th-century costumes for a themed banquet in the mansion or wine cellar


Just a 90-minute drive from the center of Dublin, Ballyfin Demesne is the perfect all-out retreat to complement time in the city for an experience that mixes urban energy with the transformative richness of the countryside.

Getting to Ballyfin is all about arriving in style. The Neoclassical country house sits in the middle of a grand estate that evokes Old World visions of elegant balls, sophisticated dinners, scenic walks and old-school hunts. Inside is all that you might expect from a hotel of this nature: gilded ceilings, imperial columns, domed skylights, large staircases, silk-covered walls, roaring fireplaces, dramatic artworks and fine upholstery.

The incredible staff, many of whom have been there for years, strive to pamper guests and make them feel immediately at home. In a hospitality landscape where "bare and modern" is trendy, Ballyfin provides an over-the-top escape that revels in its refined showiness and welcomes guests to indulge.

Despite this grandeur, there’s an incredible intimacy at Ballyfin, thanks to its limited inventory of only 20 rooms. These spacious suites—each of which is decorated differently—take on the classic style of the rest of the house, where a medley of textures and patterns creates an almost historic backdrop to your stay. And the large windows in every room perfectly frame picturesque scenes of lakes, courtyards and gardens (and every room has a view of a water feature).

There are also villa accommodations. The Gardener’s Cottage offers an especially private “home-away-from-home” experience, with all the amenities of staying on the grounds. Once the home of the estate gardener, the cottage was fully renovated to include a cozy sitting room with a fireplace, as well as a kitchenette for morning coffee and a patio with a hot tub for relaxing after a day of riding or shooting. Upstairs, there is a spacious bedroom with “His” and “Hers” bathrooms, the latter of which is fully mirrored and features a chrome bathtub.

Best of all, the cottage provides lovely views and private access to the six acres of walled gardens that supply the Ballyfin kitchen with produce, as well as the freshly cut flowers that are placed in the rooms every day. Guests are welcome to tour the gardens solo, or they can enjoy the company of the head gardener.

Ballyfin’s all-inclusive program makes it difficult to leave the property, especially because there is plenty to do—from archery, shooting, falconry, horseback riding and golfing to more calming activities like a trip to the spa or a simple stroll around the grounds to marvel at the beauty of the Irish countryside. The property possesses over 600 acres to explore, and hidden grottoes, medieval castles, winding paths and varied wildlife make a trip on foot or by bike a magical adventure.

Meals, all of which are included, are almost entirely sourced from the property and its neighboring farms. The head chef, Sam Moody, displays this bounty in inventive and delicious ways.

Who Should Stay

Couples or families with older children (nine and up) who are happy in a stylish, sophisticated setting (with top-notch service and access to Ireland's lush natural beauty)

— Elizabeth Harvey and Chadner Navarro

Written by Indagare

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