St. Anselm

Though St. Anselm presents itself as a simple steakhouse—and its steak is indeed excellent—you’d be mistaken not to order off the rest of the menu, which celebrates the pleasures of the open fire. It is the grill, rather than red meat, that is given the starring role here, with superlative charred cuts of beef holding court alongside fire-roasted sardines and smoky eggplant slices on the well-rounded menu. Don’t leave without ordering a side of mashed potatoes, which have been, in fact, pan-fried to create a crusty golden top, fragrant with truffle oil and parsley. This Williamsburg eatery doesn’t take reservations, so plan to arrive when it opens or wait (for hours) at its sister craft-beer bar next door, Spuyten Duyvil.