Alle Murate

Florence is a city better known for its cultural venues than for great restaurants (many places cater to the tourist and study-abroad crowds). A wonderful exception is Alle Murate, which combines art and refined cuisine in one of Italy’s most unique restaurant settings. The Palazzo dell’Arte dei Giudici e Notai, a former fourteenth-century guildhall, has walls that are covered in well-preserved frescoes. Chef (she prefers the title of cook) Giovanna Iorio is all about simple, seasonal foods, and dishes might include a grilled mackerel fillet with mixed vegetables, pigeon stuffed with pine nuts and raisins and for dessert, a warm cheesecake with yogurt and lemon cream. Before or after the meal, you should take the guided tour (available in English), which leads you through the candlelit space, explaining everything from the ceiling frescoes all the way down to the ancient foundations.