Grand Hotel Timeo

A dinner reservation on the terrace of this grande dame hotel is a much-coveted affair. Sitting proudly in the hillside of already lofty Taormina, the Timeo looks across terraced gardens to the sea. This is the kind of unapologetically old-school place where a team of waiters and sommeliers sweeps around your table, where meals take hours and menus fold out to the size of newspapers (female diners are given versions without the prices, certo).

But it's far from stuffy. The staff is warm and accommodating, chatting with diners and happily explaining the local dishes, all of which are incredible. Come hungry: this is definitely the place to order it all: antipasta, primi and secondi, followed by dessert if you still can. The wine list has lots of nearby winners; after all Mount Etna smolders in the distance (on some nights, you can actually see lava). It's by far the most expensive restaurant in Sicily, but a meal here is truly special and should not be missed.