Grumeti Reserves

One of Africa’s great conservation success stories has occurred in the Grumeti Reserves. Thanks to the deep pockets and fierce commitment of venture philanthropist and conservationist Paul Tudor Jones II, this 350,000-acre reserve has seen dramatic increases in its animal population. (And yes, the establishment of some of the continent’s most luxurious lodgings as well. Read about the three lodges: Sasakwa, Faru Faru and Sabora) In 2003, when Jones acquired a 99-year lease on the reserve lying along the western edge of the Serengeti, wildebeest and antelope, as well as lion and elephant, were being poached regularly; today they are flourishing to the extent that the count of buffalo, giraffe, eland and impala have more than tripled. As large as the Masai Mara but with 100 guests compared to 6,000, Grumeti arguably offers more privacy and luxury than any other spot in Africa. The great wildebeest migration passes through in June, July and August, but now resident herds of giraffe, hartebeest and topi flourish.

Jones, who was one of the cofounders of the Robin Hood Foundation, does more than just preserve this prime parcel; all proceeds from his three lodges benefit the Grumeti Fund, a nonprofit dedicated to wildlife conservation and community development, providing education, employment and health care to local people, as well as water and sustainable agriculture. He knows that it is vital that the local community can be sustained by its tourist activities, so he’s involving locals in multiple ways. One of the first steps was to turn ex-poachers into avid trackers who are now passionate about preserving the wildlife and spreading their passion through their community. Teenagers come to workshops dedicated to the environment and tourism. Among the other initiatives that have been instituted are a sunflower oil project, a piggery, fishery, tree nursery and organic vegetable garden, so that much of the produce used in the kitchen comes from the local community.

When Singita first took over the Grumeti properties, some sniped that the attraction was the Big Glam not the Big Game because the opulence outdid the animal viewing. That is clearly not the case anymore. In the course of our stay, we saw a herd of more than 100 elephants, thousands of zebras, impalas, topi, hartebeest and dozens of giraffes, and buffalo as well as lion (including young cubs), cheetah and leopard (from a hot air balloon). In fact, since Paul Tudor Jones II and his team began instituting their conservation program here, others are learning from their methods.

Bottom Line: Yes, you can be more isolated in the Selous, Gabon and other areas but you won’t be able to order Chateau d’Yquem at dinner or swap a game drive for a spontaneous game of billiards, badminton or tennis. And while you may have those options at Singita Boulders, they don’t come with the vastness of the Serengeti plains.