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Birkenhead House
Part of Liz Biden's Royal Portfolio, this gorgeous beach house sits high on a cliff in the fishing town of Hermanus.
Ellerman House
With just eleven rooms and suites and two private villas, Ellerman House is the top choice on Cape Town's Atlantic coast. Read our review.
La Residence
Originally designed as the private home of South African power couple Phil and Liz Biden, La Residence feels exquisitely personal.
Phinda Private Game Reserve
andBeyond Phinda Homestead is ideal for families or a circle of friends looking for their own space and experience in a safari destination.
Royal Malewane
Rolal Malewane is an uber-stylish, privately owned bush camp that closer resembles a luxurious six-star hotel than a safari lodge.
Singita Boulders Lodge
Singita Ebony
Singita Lebombo Lodge
Singita Lebombo is a hilltop lodge in the Kruger National Park with 15 nest-like suites and a modern-organic look, that is a favorite for honeymooners.
The Silo Hotel
The Silo Hotel in Cape Town is a feat of industrial-meets-Art Deco design that's extremely stylish in the V&A Waterfront district.
andBeyond Tengile River Lodge
In the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, adjacent to the world-renowned Kruger National Park, Tengile River Lodge is a haven that seamlessly combines luxury and untamed wilderness.
Babylonstoren
On the foothills of the Drakenstein, this destination hotel–cum–rural utopia put the South African Winelands in the spotlight when it opened in 2010. The massive property, with a working farm and acres of gardens, embodies an innovative new generation of eco-travel.
Guests stay in minimalist one- or two-bedroom suites in white-washed, 17th-century Cape Dutch–style farm buildings. There, visitors are completely immersed in the sublime natural setting: days include fishing and canoeing in the property’s water reserve; exploring the resort’s numerous hiking and biking trails; or touring the gorgeous gardens with Babylonstoren’s expert horticulturists. The hotel puts a premium on its sustainability and commitment to green technology. For instance, the garden forbids pesticides but rather makes use of insects and small animals to reduce its environmental footprint.
Another draw is the superb Garden Spa, which offers numerous enriching treatments, plus a steam and sauna room and two pools. Don’t miss the indulgent Hammam Water Ritual, which includes a full body exfoliation and body butter massage. Many therapies include oils and scrubs made from freshly picked herbs.
However, the magnum opus of Babylonstoren is its prized farm-to-table cuisine. The resort’s fine-dining restaurant, Babel, is one of Cape Town’s most sought-after eateries and serves elevated seasonal fare using incredibly fresh produce. Guests have the option to pick ingredients from the on-site garden and cook themselves in one of the six state-of-the-art cottage kitchens (or, solicit the help of one of Babel’s chefs, who are eager to lend a hand). There is also a more casual eatery, which serves equally delicious food.
Bay Hotel
This unpretentious boutique hotel heralded the beginning of Camps Bay’s transformation from the sleepy seaside suburb of my youth to the waterfront neighborhood of cafés and restaurants that draws loads of tourists. The Bay is still a lovely place to stay, set back from the bustling main road, and directly opposite one of the best beaches on the Atlantic. The rooms are airy and spacious with a relaxed, contemporary feel, and the raised pool deck offers a view of the bay and the palm trees along the beach. The hotel attracts a youngish clientele, and is apparently the rock-star hotel of choice, but in my experience it is a peaceful spot that delivers privacy and seclusion.
Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel
This Belmond property is Cape Town’s uncontested grande dame hotel, with an oh-so-British setting and beautiful grounds across nine acres.
Cape Cadogan
A good option for value-conscious travelers, the modern Cape Cadogan is a friendly guesthouse in the Gardens neighborhood, near the restaurants and shops of Long and Kloof streets. The elegant, double-storied Georgian mansion, which dates from the early 1900s, houses twelve rooms and a three-bedroom villa also on the premises. Opened in 2004, the bed and breakfast is run by the More family who created Lion Sands Private Game Reserve in Sabi Sand.
The sleek rooms are comfortably spacious with a predominantly white color scheme, beautiful fabrics and king-size beds, including some polished four-posters. Number 4 comes with a small balcony; number 2, on the ground floor, is one of the largest and has a small private patio, and numbers 6 and 7 overlook the street.
There’s WiFi throughout, though, what’s most charming about Cape Cadogan is the homey ambience, in part thanks to the buildings history. The dark wood floors were restored, there’s a large fireplace in one of the sitting rooms, which is also outfitted with overstuffed couches where guests can enjoy afternoon tea, and walls are decorated with framed mirrors and period drawings. Breakfast is served in a contemporary, all-white dining room. During the summer months, there’s also a leafy courtyard where you can sit with coffee.
Cape Cadogan doesn’t allow children under the age of twelve, but the owners also run nine apartments in the area ranging in size from one- to two-bedrooms. They have the same elegant, understated décor as those in the hotel and daily maid service can be arranged, but guests enjoy more independence. The staff is helpful and can help with Cape Town suggestions, whether it’s the new hot spot restaurant or arranging a guide for a city tour.
Cape Grace
The Cape Grace underwent an extensive renovation of all the rooms and common spaces, which was completed in early 2009. The beautifully handcrafted design takes its inspiration from Cape Town's history. Memorable details include sumptuous silk curtains painted with names of old Dutch ships, collections of antique porcelain on display throughout and unique chandeliers designed by a duo of Cape Town-based artisans that are made with a mix of crystal and artifacts. This type of decor continues in the 121 rooms, all of which are unique, with a mix of antiques and reproduction furniture, hand-painted fabrics and whimsical decorations, like large wooden chests and wrought-iron lamp stands (that were made in a nearby atelier).
Occupying what is arguably the best location in the V&A waterfront, on a slender island in the center of the harbor, the Cape Grace looks like an elegant ocean-liner from the outside. Harbor-side bar Bascule is a fabulous spot for a cocktail, and the restaurant Signal is a good place to try Cape Malay-inspired cuisine. The hotel also offers a house car to transport guests off-property.
It has an attractive spa, and a quayside whiskey bar that lures a young and festive crowd, but its courtyard swimming pool and comfortable lounges are low-key and appealing.
Cape View Cliffton
Literally just around the bend of the coastal road heading to Camps Bay from our favorite small hotel in Cape Town, Ellerman House, is a new chic retreat that is ideal for young fashionable folk who do not need quite the same polish or pampering as those who want the very best. Cape View Clifton is the passion project of a 28-year-old fashion stylist, Jessica Latimer, who lived and worked in London as a stylist for a few years and when she came back decided to transform a cliffside rental property of her family into a chic boutique hotel. Her idea was to share the beach-house living that her family enjoys on holiday with visitors.
The five-story house with view of Camps Bay and Clifton has been elegantly transformed from a series of rental units into a seven-suite inn with enormous style. Latimer has brought a lovely beachy aesthetic to the rooms. From the main entry, you are welcomed to a sitting area with spectacular views of Camps Bay and crashing waves below. Down another flight of stairs, there is a little library nook filled with African objects like cowrie shell boxes, tribal sculptures and antler horns and books on Africa. Tucked in another room is a small gym with two treadmills and a Stairmaster facing the sea. The main communal area encompasses a comfy living room, dining area with an open kitchen and a deck with an infinity pool that hangs over the cliff with views to Camps Bay. Those who want to swim at the beach could brave the walk 300 steps down from the road or hail a taxi (as most do). Many just decide to stay up on this perch and enjoy the privacy. Breakfast is served as a feast with hot and cold options, but there is no proper restaurant for lunch and dinner since there are so many great options to choose from in the area.
All of the guest rooms face the sea with balconies of varying sizes. The largest two suites are like mini-apartments, which could work for families; they feature a sitting area, large bedroom and the biggest balconies. The design in all rooms is contemporary beach house chic with neutral palettes, bleached wood accents and all-white bathrooms (only one has a tub). With a former Ellerman House employee running the property, Cape View is already attracting a loyal crowd of regulars who are making this their new Cape Town home.
Cellars-Hohenort
The first thing guests of this hotel notice are the stunning grounds and verdant tranquility of this property that sits, somewhat off the beaten track, in upscale Constantia. The area is home to a large British expat community and several wine estates, just twenty minutes from the city center.
The Cellars, in fact, are part of the 18th-century Klaasenbosch wine estate, and the former Hohenort manor house constitutes the main part of the hotel. The guest rooms have an English-country feel, with huge beds and antique dressers, and many have marvelous views of the Constantia Valley. One of the two restaurants on the property, the Greenhouse, has an excellent reputation for modern South African fare. There is also a spa, tennis court, putting green and three pools. It’s the kind of property with the charm and cosseting that you might find at one of the best inns in Provence or the Cotswolds.
Cheetah Plains
Compass House
Delaire Graff Estate
Few properties in the Cape Winelands have opened with as much hoopla as the Delaire Graff Estate, unveiled in 2009 by diamond magnate Laurence Graff. Graff bought the estate in 2003 and spent years—and millions—transforming it into a luxury property worthy of its spectacular high-altitude setting atop the Helshoogte Mountain Pass, which separates the towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The result is a gorgeous resort with world-class everything, from the prodigious wine cellar (ask for a tasting) and the spacious guest rooms with plunge pools to the serious art collection. There are two restaurants, a spa, an infinity pool, a charming boutique called 100% Capri that sells home decor and, bien sur, the flagship Graff diamond salon.
Guest rooms are spread among ten cottages (called “lodges”), all of them spacious (the smallest is 800 square feet), with chic, urban furniture in a cool gray palette. Private plunge pools and decks make the most of the sweeping views. One of the loveliest things to do is to stroll along the paved pathway that runs through the vineyard. On your right side are row upon row of impeccably planted grapevines (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc), the varietals changing with the elevation; on your left side is a cavernous valley with breathtaking views over the countryside.
Dulini Lodge
The first thing you’ll notice upon arriving at Dulini is how shaded it is. Ebony and leadwood trees create a canvas over the thatch-roof structures of this small and intimate lodge on the riverbanks. Iain Garratt, the proprietor, greets every arrival with a warm smile and a cold drink. In fact, he is on hand and on property almost all the time, sometimes with his wife and kids. This attention comes through in the care and detail in which this six-suite lodge is run. With a maximum of twelve guests at one time, Iain gets to know the travelers who come to Dulini, and usually it is a self-selecting group of people who value the intimacy and personal touch offered here.
The owners’ warmth extends to the staff, and it’s clear there is a close and respectful relationship with their employers. Overall, it creates an atmosphere where you truly feel like a guest in someone’s home. The chef meets you upon arrival not only to inquire about dietary requirements, but what food in particular you want to eat and how you want to dine – in such a small property, it’s possible to set up private table settings wherever possible. There is no restaurant here, just options for dining venues. Dulini achieves what other lodges strive for: a bespoke experience.
Instead of building more rooms, Dulini wisely used its space to build large, luxurious suites. Each suite is 1,500 square feet, with a plunge pool and a direct view of the riverbed, an artery to the main river that attracts a high density of wildlife. While there is an electric fence to keep out elephants, smaller animals like antelope and leopards still get through, and it’s not unusual to see them in the grassy courtyard between the main lodge and the rooms.
As with many small lodges in the area, Dulini shares the land with neighboring lodges for game drives. Collectively, Dulini traverses 10,000 hectares (roughly 25,000 acres) of bush, and information on sightings is shared by rangers from the various lodges. Iain was a ranger himself before opening Dulini in 2013, and he prides himself in selecting and training some of the best guides in the area. Dulini also shares the airstrip at Ulusaba.
Four Seasons Westcliff
Located in the Parks, one of Johannesburg’s most prestigious collection of neighborhoods, the Four Seasons Westcliff sits amidst the city’s best shopping, restaurants and cultural attractions, and is only 30 minutes from the airport. The family-friendly property aims to position Johannesburg as more than a gateway city, but a destination in its own right.
Each of the 117 rooms and suites—many with outdoor spaces—has been renovated with bright fabrics and patterns to create a visually stimulating, comfortable setting that incorporates the local aesthetic. The property boasts five restaurants, with everything from the fine-dining View restaurant to the traditional braai (South African barbecue grill). There is even a deli with to-go offerings for families on their way out for a day of touring. Those staying on property are encouraged to relax and unwind in the destination spa, complete with nine treatment rooms, a lap pool, 24-hour fitness center and kid’s club.
Grande Provence
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve
God’s Window, the highest point of Grootbos, a nature preserve and five-star lodge, makes you ponder the question: How far is it possible for the human eye to see before the curvature of the earth begins to interfere? The property comprises about 5,000 acres of pristine wilderness, and from God’s Window you can see virtually all of it, as well as all the way to Cape Point (60 miles to the west) and De Hoop Nature Reserve (60 miles to the east): a magnificent sweep of mountains, foothills, valleys, rivers, ocean and dunes.
The local landscape, known as the coastal fynbos, looks low and scrubby from above, like the moors. But up close it’s a beautiful tapestry of heather, grasses, and shrubs in celadon, lemony green, red, rust, rose and taupe. Part of the Cape Floral Kingdom, the fynbos is extraordinarily diverse, comprising more plant species than there are in the entire Northern hemisphere. And the preserve at Grootbos is particularly rich, including five species that are found nowhere else on earth.
Happily for the world, this incredible landscape is in exactly the right hands. Grootbos (pronounced HROOT-boss), which means Big Bush in Afrikaans, is owned by the Lutzeyer family. Brothers Michael and Teritius are passionately involved with every aspect of the place, especially preserving the indigenous flora. Michael first bought the property in 1991 as a simple farm, then gradually began adding lodging and taking guests. Today there are 27 suites spread among two marvelous lodges (Forest Lodge and Garden Lodge) and a series of cottages strung along the hillside. There is also a private six-bedroom villa. The architecture is modern and stunning, making the most of the views, which are so open and vast, it’s hard to capture them in pictures.
One of the best things about Grootbos is the superb staff, particularly the naturalist guides, who accompany you on fantastic adventures that might include hiking, horseback riding along the beach, or just barreling around the property in a Land Rover. One morning, we did a boat excursion, and saw a bride whale breaching (Walker Bay is one of the top whale watching sites in the world), great white sharks, endangered African penguins and hundreds of seals. In the afternoon, we hiked through the Milkwood forest and had sundowners atop God’s Window.
Grootbos is a gorgeous setting, but it does not have game, which some people see as a drawback. I think it’s actually a distinct advantage, and makes it a wonderful destination to combine with a few nights in a game reserve. Going on safari is unforgettable, but you are sitting in a car for six or seven hours a day, which can get uncomfortable after a while, especially if you are used to being active. At Grootbos, the lack of dangerous animals affords you freedom of movement: you have an opportunity to be outdoors all day long swimming, boating, riding and hiking, without having to worry that a leopard might pounce on you from a nearby tree. If you have kids, it will be the part of your trip where you can breathe a sigh of relief, let them run free and not have to be watching them like a hawk.
Before I went to Grootbos, I confess I didn’t quite “get it”. Why travel two hours from Cape Town to visit a nature preserve? But I must admit that Grootbos was one of the highlights of my entire trip to South Africa, in large part because it has so much soul. The lodge has a wide range of philanthropic projects, including a soccer field they built for the local community and an organic farm where locals are taught sustainable farming techniques and life skills, while also supplying the Grootbos chef with a steady stream of fresh produce. At lunch at Forest Lodge, the buffet had seven different salads, each one delicious and incredibly fresh. In subtle ways like this, everything works beautifully together, and you just feel good being there and being part of it.
Grootbos is an easy two-hour drive from Cape Town along the breathtaking Garden Route. Stop along the way at Betty’s Baie to see the African penguins, and at Hermanus for a leg stretch at the whale watching park.
Hermanus Villa Rentals from The Royal Portfolio
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
Occupying some 54,000 private acres, Kwandwe has an impressive line-up of wildlife, though in sheer numbers, it, of course, can’t compete with such national parks as Kruger or Serengeti (in comparison, Kruger spans 6.2 million acres). Split by the Great Fish River (“We have our own Left and Right Banks,” joked one of the rangers), the pristine, varied terrain moves swiftly from expansive, aloe-studded desert landscapes and tangles of euphorbia bushland to dense forests of majestic trees and steep cliffs rising from the riverbed.
Of South Africa’s seven biospheres, six converge in the Eastern Cape, making for stunning, varied terrain. Incidentally, the one missing is the low-grown savannah most first-time visitors associate with an African safari (blame it on Out of Africa). The habitat houses thousands of animals, including elephant, cheetah, leopard, lion, giraffe, buffalo, black and white rhino, and the usual Africa antelope suspects (kudu, springbuck, eland, wildebeest etc.)
Kwandwe has two lodges, Great Fish River and Ecca Lodge, as well as two sole-use safari villas at Kwandwe. Modern and sleek, with eye-popping colors and six rooms (all of which come with private plunge pools), Ecca is folded into dense bush, overlooking a valley. It’s a popular choice for families traveling with kids thanks to the relaxed design scheme, pool framed by a wooden deck, a game room and baby-sitting service. Sitting on a towering cliff overlooking the river, Great Fish River Lodge is the more luxurious of the two, with glorious views and a vast sense of space thanks to wooden terraces and patios that look towards the other side of the river, where you can watch monkeys playing in the treetops and herds of kudu grazing while you lunch.
Comfortable and spacious, the Kwandwe suites make a great base to relax mid-day between game drives, but the history-rich location also makes it a great place to explore. Guests can visit a local community, learn how to bead traditional jewelry, cook local food or volunteer in a variety of activities.
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