In Sicily, the sun shines brighter, the flavors are more robust, the traffic more chaotic and the people infinitely more inviting. This is a place that has been conquered by virtually everyone—Phoenicians, Normans, Vikings, Arabs, Moors, Persians, Greeks, Romans—and the result is a country within a country, its centuries of external influences having been distilled into a distinctive culture driven by the seasons and defined by the food. Here is Indagare's short list of places to stay on the is...
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