The Home of Golf: Finding Wild Greens—and Authentic Moments—in Scotland

When people talk about golf in Scotland, they mention the history, and the weather, but they often neglect to mention just how much fun it is. Playing at the Old Course just a few weeks ago—with its huge, wild greens, multiple strategic lines of play and unforgettable finish in the town of St. Andrews—made most other courses seem dull by comparison.

I played six courses in four days, but I was on the 13th hole at the Castle Course—my first round in the country, still weary from the flight—when ...