More than a decade ago, I remember a Venetian friend of mine lamenting the transformation of Venice from a city of commerce and local community into a museum. Rising real estate prices and ever-increasing tourist ventures were pushing residents and businesses to the mainland. She had witnessed the population drop from 175,000 to under 70,000. Movie theaters, grocery stores, cleaners and other ventures supporting local inhabitants had been outbid by the luxury brands, souvenir shops and trattoria...