Inside Val di Noto, Sicily with William Brockschmidt

“Sicily is rich in contrasts and contradictions,” says designer William Brockschmidt, who calls Modica in Val di Noto a second home. His love affair with the island began during a one-month stay in 2000, a trip that not only led to purchasing a home but also to opening the popular boutique Sud in New Orleans. Sud is an ode to Sicily, showcasing local antiques, ceramics, art and accessories; it allows William and his husband, Richard Dragisic, to share a taste of the region stateside. But for those venturing to the island itself, and more specifically to the UNESCO World Heritage region of Val di Noto, William has the ultimate guide, especially for art and design lovers.

Below, get his advice on where to stay, what to eat and the shops and sights that should not be missed in Sicily, from Catania to Ragusa.

Casa Talía

Casa Talía in Modica is the home and rustic-chic hotel of couple Marco Giunta and Viviana Hadid, who moved to Modica from Milan and raised their family within the hotel property. Viviana is an architect who created a distinctive regional style that blends a modern sensibility with traditional materials and construction techniques. Unique from Sicily’s many converted palazzos, the rooms are made up of small houses with landscaped grounds and stunning views of the Duomo di San Giorgio.

Seven Rooms Villadorata

Seven Rooms Villadorata was the first and remains the most elegant of Noto’s hotels in the centro storico. The property beautifully blends a historic atmosphere and comfort in the city’s heart, just off the main corso.

Villa Rentals

While we personally prefer a hotel in the centro storico, a rented villa is a luxurious way to enjoy the different towns of the Val di Noto, especially for a larger group. Contact Indagare or your trip designer for more information.

• In 25 years we have never gone to Noto without visiting Caffè Sicilia. The coffee is of the highest quality, and the caffe mandorla is a special indulgence. Corrado Assenza’s pastries capture the essence of Sicilian ingredients with surprising and delightful tastes and textures. It is always crowded, but even if you can’t get a table on the corso, the flavors compensate for a seat inside.
• While there is no coffee at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto in Modica, Pierpaolo Ruta maintains his family’s 150-year-old chocolate-making tradition while introducing new delights. The grainy, cold-processed Modica chocolate is the star; the original bars are flavored with vanilla or cinnamon, but newer flavors include citrus, nuts or herbs. Their cannoli and chocolate cassate are incredible. (When we leave Sicily, we load up on their three torrones—white almond, burnt almond and sesame seed—and their candied orange peel, all of which are fragrant with local honey.)
• For gelato in Modica, we choose from the limited but rich selection at Caffè Adamo. We also like their breakfasts—the cornetti are filled with marmalade or creams when you order so they stay crisp.
• For intense and refreshing pistachio, almond or coffee granita con panna, we particularly enjoy Rosy Bar.

• If the weather doesn’t allow dining alfresco, we head to A Putia Ro Vinu, a well-known, old-fashioned (and no-frills) restaurant in the Cartellone neighborhood. There is always a mix of Modican families, business people and tourists enjoying the traditional food. We love the simple ricotta ravioli with meat sauce and the Modican antipasto.
• If we are in Ragusa Ibla on a lovely day, we linger at the outdoor tables in front of I Banchi (which also has very nice rooms inside). Housed in a palazzo, it is slightly off the beaten track and feels calm, smart and sophisticated without pretense. It’s the perfect way to end a morning walk or start an afternoon walk in Ragusa Ibla. (See also our beach recommendation below for seaside lunch.)
• Modica and Ragusa both claim origins for a great lunchtime prepared food treat called the scaccia. It is made with extremely thin bread dough that is filled and rolled. My favorite is a Modican variant filled with richly cooked tomato and onion, while the Ragusa scaccia is filled with tomato and cacciocavallo cheese. In Modica, you can find scaccia at Piccolo Bar in Piazza Matteoti and Emporio Caccamo in Modica Alta. I Banchi is known for their elevated version.

• During the warm months, if you plan your visit to the Duomo di San Giorgio around cocktail time (the spectacular Baroque cathedral is open 9:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.), you can have inventive aperitivo at Gli Orti di San Giorgio, a series of garden terraces restored by Simone Sabaini near his award-winning Modica chocolate shop Sabadì. During the summer, there is often live music.
• Open year-round is the Rappa Enoteca in Modica Alta. The vintage, Liberty-style space and friendly atmosphere are enjoyed by tourists and locals who come for a variety of wines and tasty food for an aperitivo or light dinner—and who enjoy chatting with charming owner Giancarlo Antocci and his knowledgable staff.

• In Modica, Accursio Radici is the smart but casual osteria of Accursio Craparo, who decided to close his nearby Michelin-starred restaurant to focus on a different set of fine-dining priorities without the pressure of maintaining a star. The food is close-your-eyes delicious, the space is elegant and the staff are friendly and professional.
• For years, we have been going to Fattoria Delle Torri for the elegant cooking of Peppe Barone, one of the early creative chefs exploring regional Sicilian cuisine. Now, his daughters Carla and Francesca have taken over, bringing their own innovation. During the summer, one can dine under lemon trees on the terrace of the old vaulted building.

There are gorgeous beaches on the Ionian Sea, including those within the Vendicari Nature Reserve, but our favorite is Sampieri on the southern Mediterranean coast, which stretches from the striking ruins of the Fornace Penna in the east to the charming fishing village of Sampieri in the west. There are options on the eastern side—rocky outcroppings for diving or sand dunes—but no amenities. There are a few beach clubs with restaurants, chaises and umbrellas on the western side. In the shoulder season, we often enjoy a walk on the beach or a quick swim before an alfresco lunch of swordfish, patate fritte and white wine at Pata Pata.

First-Time Activities

Beyond the most obvious sites across Sicily, these are the best activities for those who love interiors. In Palermo, see the wildly exotic Palazzina Cinese. While in Palermo or en route to Cefalu, stop in Bagheria where the most beautiful villas were built in the 18th century. You have to have some imagination to see beyond the ugly 20th-century apartment buildings that replaced the gardens, but many villas are still there, including the wonderfully bizarre Villa Palagonia. In Catania, don’t miss the frothy interiors of the Palazzo Biscari and the San Nicolò Monastery, known as the “monks’ Versailles,” famous for its cuisine and luxury.

Interior Spaces

Since Val di Noto is more about urban spaces and set pieces, there are fewer opportunities to visit historic homes, especially now that the exquisite Palazzo Castelluccio in Noto has closed to become a luxury Rocco Forte hotel. We often pop into small museums just to see the architecture. The rooms may not be monumental, but they give a sense of aristocratic life in the provinces—and often, we end up enjoying the museum’s collection as well. (Plus, many are free.) For example, in Modica, the 19th-century Palazzo Grimaldi has a trompe l'oeil aviary, and in Ragusa Ibla, the 18th-century Palazzo La Rocca has a splendid staircase. When visiting churches, ask if it’s possible to see the library or vestry. We once had an impromptu “tour” of all the gorgeous 18th-century vestments.

Local Events

• We make it a point to visit Modica in April for the Festa di San Giorgio, when the figure of the saint on the dragon is paraded around town all afternoon and evening to the sound of organ music.
• Sant’Agata in Catania is the biggest, most spectacular festa, but every town and city has at least one, and they are particularly Sicilian experiences.
• A truly extraordinary experience is a performance of a classical Greek tragedy in the ancient theater of Siracusa. Even if you don’t understand Italian—the modern language of the performances—the evening is pure spectacle in a dreamlike setting.

• In Modica, there is an elegant, traditional men’s clothing store, Azzarelli, on Corso Umberto, that opened in 1938 and comes in handy when we need something dressier.
• Women can find unique and whimsical handbags and accessories by Ottavia Failla.
• For whimsical but exquisite jewelry that evokes Sicily, visit the shop of Massimo Izzo in Ortigia, Siracusa.
• In Noto, the glamorous international clothing and concept store Santagatha is in the stunningly restored church of Sant’Agata di Noto.

• Lo Magno in Modica Sacro Cuore is an acclaimed contemporary art gallery where we have found much of our own art. They now have a beautiful gallery in the fantastic Palazzo Beneventano in Scicli.
• Garage Fontana is an exciting new gallery on the busy “back road” to Modica Alta.
• The famous Sicilian pottery is an ideal souvenir, especially the Sicilian Teste di Moro (made famous in The White Lotus…). Caltagirone is the most recognized ceramic city, but other locations have their own style. In Scicli, Dario Magro is a genius, and he has a small shop near the Chiesa di San Bartolomeo.
• For antiques, Rachel Bartoli’s Antichita Nicolaci in Noto and Teddy Russino’s Grand Tour L'Atelier have beautiful selections. In Ragusa Ibla (across from I Banchi) is Cinabro Carrettieri, where the tradition of Sicilian cart-making and decorating lives on. Or you can visit us at Sud in New Orleans!