The Ultimate Itinerary: Peru in 12 Days

The Indagare ambassadors embarked on the ultimate 12-day trip to Peru, venturing from the dramatic ruins of Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, all the way to the heights of Lake Titicaca and the white-washed buildings of Arequipa. Below, ambassador Brewer Schoeller shares intel from the journey, including the activities not to miss and best hotels to call home base.

All international flights land in the coastal capital of Lima, a city as renowned for its food scene as for its cloud cover. Travelers can spend a day or two here recovering from the journey and indulging in a taste of the country—both literally and figuratively.

Where to Stay

The trendy Barranco neighborhood is home to one of the city’s best properties, Hotel B, a boutique address that blends old charm with contemporary amenities. It serves as both a retreat and exhibition space for the owners’ vast art collection. In the residential Miraflores neighborhood, Atemporal by Andean is a cozy, former private residence that makes travelers feel like well-cared-for houseguests. It has a charming outdoor terrace and dining room and is a great option for a takeover when traveling with extended family or groups of friends. For a more traditional hotel experience in an urban setting, the larger Miraflores Park, A Belmond Hotel has a rooftop pool and sweeping view of the city’s coastline.

What to Do

While in town, don’t miss the Museo Larco Herrera. Founded in 1926, it is home to over 45,000 archaeological objects, including a unique collection of erotic pottery in a separate wing called “Erotic Hall.” The museum’s café, set under a flower trellis, is the perfect spot to rest and refresh—and to enjoy a pisco sour, the local specialty. Those not already staying at Hotel B should make sure to visit the small yet vibrant district of Barranco, where street art, sidewalk artisanal craft booths and people-watching abound. The reason so many travelers come to Lima is the food, and snagging a reservation at one of the city’s many top-tier restaurants is a must, at least for the experience. Note, though, that it is important to be intentional about dining in Lima. While it is home to some of the world’s best restaurants, that does not mean that the majority of restaurants deliver a “wow” experience.

Check out our Foodie’s Guide to Lima in 24 Hours.

A 90-minute flight from Lima places you in the Sacred Valley, a place of rich history, immense natural beauty and spiritualism.

Where to Stay

We recommend checking into a private casita at Sol y Luna, where every room has its own terrace, fireplace and expansive seating area, affording guests both privacy and space. Enhancing the experience are the large pool area, stables and beautiful gardens—plus, a portion of the hotel’s profits go toward the Sol y Luna Foundation’s support of a local orphanage. For a more contemporary feel, book a room at the Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba. The newest addition to the Inkaterra portfolio, the property is set on 100 acres, and guests have the option of staying in the main building or in one of the bungalows scattered across the grounds, which take inspiration from the local culture and landscape.

What to Do

In the Sacred Valley, you have the opportunity to explore the history and ruins of Pisca, venture to the cascading salt flats and witness the ancient agricultural terraces, all in the orbit of the Urubamba River. Be sure to try local hikes showcasing the sights of Maras, home to the salt pools, and the archaeological site of Moray, as well as the views of the Vilcanota Mountain Range. But this is not the place to pack your day. Here, you’ll want to take some time to stop and smell the Peruvian roses.

The highlight of many trips to Peru is witnessing the wonder that is Machu Picchu. Get there in style by boarding the Hiram Bingham train from Belmond’s Rio Sagrado train station to Aguas Calientes. Settle back into your comfortable three-and-a-half-hour journey up into the heights of the Andes, enjoying a gourmet lunch and beautiful vistas. Upon arrival into Aguas Calientes, transportation awaits to whisk you to the entrance of Machu Picchu Citadel. (Note: Timed-entry tickets to Machu Picchu should be purchased well in advance.) Spend three hours exploring the site with your guide and enjoy afternoon tea at Belmond’s Sanctuary Lodge before reboarding the Hiram Bingham train for fine-dining and a bar car with spirited live music, cocktails and recitations of the day’s impressions among fellow travelers.

Upon your return, continue on to the ancient city and UNESCO World Heritage site of Cusco.

Where to Stay

Monasterio, A Belmond Hotel offers the expansive setting of a former convent, incorporating an ornate and breathtaking chapel and a grand dining room where an orchestra and operatic singers serenade you in the evening hours. Right next door is Palacio Nazarenas, A Belmond Hotel, an unmatched jewel in Cusco. The rooms within this former palace are set around an orange tree-dotted garden courtyard, with intimate seating nooks hidden away in the foliage.

What to Do

While in Cusco, take some time to wander the winding streets and plazas, soaking in the vibrant local culture, complicated history and the treasures created by artisans dedicated to keeping their crafts alive. Travelers should take the opportunity to experience a Pachamama Ceremony—perhaps even within the walls of Belmond Monasterio’s chapel. Cusco’s placement as the spiritual home to the Incas makes it an especially memorable place to spend time with a shaman.

Next on the ultimate Peru itinerary is a visit to the highest navigable lake in the world. The vast Lake Titicaca, set in both Peru and Bolivia, is a legendary body of water, said to have been birthed by the sun’s tears and to have itself borne the Incan Empire. Today, it is home to indigenous tribes and floating islands (yes, floating islands).

On the way: If you drive rather than taking a one-hour flight from Cusco to Juliaca, stretch your legs at the archaeological site of Raqch'i, where you can explore the Temple of Viracocha, and stop at the Church of Saint Peter the Apostle of Andahuaylillas, the site of “Peru’s Sistine Chapel.”

Where to Stay:

Check into the modern, bright and airy Titilaka eco-lodge on the banks of the lake. The property wows with delicious farm-to-table dining experiences, rooms with sweeping views and a prime location—mere steps from the lobby, you can hop from the hot tub into the brisk temperatures of the lake’s legendary healing waters.

What to Do:

Spend your time here experiencing the wonders and culture of the lake. The famous Uros floating islands of Lake Titicaca are inhabited by the Uro-Aymara people who were driven into the reeds and depths of the lake after the encroachment of the Incas and the Spanish. These “people of the lake” are talented craftsmen: women are expert weavers, and men ferry their families and visitors across the lake in canoe-like rafts made from reeds.

Within sight of Bolivia’s Royal Mountain Range lies Taquile Island, a UNESCO site dedicated to the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. The island is a glimpse into another world, where guests can witness and appreciate the culture, customs and rituals of the Taquile people.

Home to soaring condors, wild horses and spectacular geysers, the Colca Valley is one of the most breathtaking natural settings in Peru. With a six-to-eight-hour transfer, travelers are rewarded with views of charming villages that dot the valley, the ruins of ancient settlements, shepherds and their flocks and the dramatic mountain ridges of the Andean Highlands.

Where to Stay

Puqio by Andean is the best option, home to a cluster of cottages made up of tented guest rooms, each with an outdoor bathtub and shower. Each luxurious abode is surrounded by native plants and strategically placed hot tubs with views of the Andes. Tying the setting together is the chic and cozy dining area and lounge, which serves truly exceptional local delicacies.

What to Do

Hike to the pre-Inca Collagua citadel, visit Maca’s Plaza de Armas and church and take in the volcanic geothermal hot spring of the Pinchollo Geyser. If you have time, head up to the Colca Canyon, considered to be the "Grand Canyon of Peru."

After a three-hour drive, arrive ready to explore the “White City,” so called for the volcanic ash with which the city was constructed beginning in 1540.

Where to Stay

The city’s top property is Cirqa by Andean. This former monastery built in 1583 is now an eleven-room retreat right in the center of town yet removed from the bustle. Its rooftop bar is at once hidden from the street and a prime spot to enjoy a panoramic city view, and the outstanding culinary presentations in the modern dining space and the service and attentiveness of the team reign supreme.

What to Do

This easily walkable and visually rich mountain town lives up to the saying “Arequipa is a book you read with your feet.” A UNESCO World Heritage historic district, Arequipa is home to elaborately decorated churches and plazas ripe for exploring. Hospitality and spiritual tolerance are evident everywhere, a sentiment perpetuated by the Jesuits who arrived in the 16th century and chose to focus on the similarities among religions rather than the differences. This is best seen in the marriage of the symbols of local belief systems with Catholic imagery in the town’s religious artworks. In between exploring traditional neighborhoods and markets, make sure to visit the colorful Santa Catalina Monastery.

Return to Lima via a 90-minute flight from Arequipa. Peru is a feast for the eyes, the soul, the mind and the tastebuds, and you can settle into your flight home knowing that you’ve experienced this country and its breadth in a way few others have.