Just Back From Somerset: England’s Hub for Foodies and Creatives

Somerset, England has been drawing seekers to its land for centuries. From Celtic worshippers and Medieval pilgrims to King Arthur’s storied heroes and the 200,000-plus people that annually attend the famous Glastonbury festival, there’s a historic mysticism woven into this rustic county of South West England. Today, the seekers continue to arrive in the form of chefs, artists and entrepreneurs who have chosen to leave city life for open air and a new way of living. As a result, Somerset has quietly evolved into a sophisticated epicurean escape, while retaining its natural soul.

With just two days to explore the region, I was excited to dive into the unfamiliar in a country I felt I knew quite well. It didn’t take long to become completely enchanted. Modern art galleries, independent shops, farms converted into luxury hotels and churches transformed into restaurants—every spot I passed had a layered story to tell. The more I encountered, the more I fell (and fell hard) for the region, as Somerset’s magic just kept unfolding. Deeply rooted in folklore, agriculture and artistry, Somerset’s renaissance deserves your attention as an alternative English countryside journey.

After a two- hour train journey from London, I arrived at the Newt, my home for the next two nights. This hotel and working farm just outside of Bruton is grand, with all the air of a dignified estate, yet delightfully authentic and surprisingly wholesome—and it immediately secured a spot at the top of my list of favorite hotels in the world. The Newt is so much more than a beautiful hotel; luxury here comes from being deeply rooted in where you are. Owned by Koos Bekker and his wife, Karen Roos (a former editor of Elle Decoration South Africa), the Newt carries much of the same ethos as their Babylonstoren property in South Africa, driven by a belief that land, food, beauty and stewardship are inseparable—the power of connecting farm to fork. Every interaction at the Newt felt grounded—rooted—from the breathwork and yoga class to the palpable passion of the beekeepers and cyder sommeliers. In touring the property, one quickly discovers why so many guests return, as the 800 explorable acres include woodlands, apple orchards, a regenerative farm and 30 acres of well-kept gardens. Other highlights include a butchery, a deer park, three restaurants, a spa with a hammam and even a reimagined Roman Villa. The Newt continues to evolve, and the estate further expands this June with the opening of Yarlington Lodge, a private rental across 12 acres with two cottages and a main house for up to 32 guests.

With so much to do, it’s plausible to spend the entirety of one’s trip at the Newt, but the small act of willpower required to venture off-property is a must for what awaits. We dined at Osip our first night—and the awe was instantaneous. Chef Merlin Labron-Johnson, who was awarded a Michelin star at age 24, has created a space that feels both world-class and deeply personal. This is a place I’d recommend to everyone, even those who don’t think of themselves as fine-dining connoisseurs. Within a 300-year-old white-stone building in a warm, inviting home-like atmosphere, Merlin designs his menus based on the food he sources from their nearby farm. The results are stunning—from grilled Cornish lobster with Sansho pepper to orange blossom flan with bitter whiskey cream. Each dish served in a painting-like presentation. Luckily we were able to snag chef’s table seats and we witnessed the brilliance up-close. There was a lightness and calmness in watching the chefs at work in the unhurried joy of creating. Only after our 10 courses of excellence were we given a menu of what we had eaten—a masterclass in turning food into art and a reflection of Osip’s philosophy. Osip also now has four elegant rooms available for those wanting to stay overnight. The best part: the French farmhouse-style breakfast in the morning.

Osip isn’t alone in its hospitality expansion. Throughout Bruton, there are a variety of charming hotels centered around a restaurant or pub. Number One Bruton, run by a husband-and-wife duo, is home to Briar, a farm-to-table neighborhood spot that has become a must-visit thanks to chef Sam Lomas. The rooms are smaller in size, yet full of character, each designed differently with subtle pops of color, floral wallpaper and historic elements paying homage to its varied past. One might notice the John Steinbeck tiles outside the Blacksmith room, who lived in Bruton in 1956 to write his book on Arthurian legends—so captivated by the enchantment, he had a sword made for himself in the forge (now a part of the hotel). Or if one looks closely, they might also see witches’ markings etched on some of the original wood beams. The downstairs lobby features a striking photo gallery, including prints from the founder’s mother, who was a famous war photojournalist. At the Chapel, the 18th-century chapel turned artisan bakery, wine store and restaurant (don’t miss the wood-fired pizzas), has 10 light-filled rooms and wellness, music and comedy events hosted throughout the week. Further away lies the Three Horseshoes, a quintessential English pub with five rooms recently remodeled in the tiny village of Batcombe. Opened by chef Margot Henderson and former London gallerist Max Wigram, the expansive pub and restaurant offers a menu on a black chalkboard that changes twice daily.

Bruton’s High Street is small, but well worth your time. Many conversations with locals revealed that a variety of shop owners and chefs have left urban homes to build something intentional, drawn to Somerset for the space to create and its mystical allure. Commune—founded by husband-and-wife duo Kate Neal and Rémi Paringaux, who moved to the area from Vancouver—sells plant-based lotions, perfumes, haircare, bath products and candles inspired by the Somerset landscape. The products reflect the connection to nature so many come to the region for. New Romantic is a curated shop featuring pajamas, ceramics, homegoods, stationery, vintage furniture and other unique finds sourced by founder Charlotte Melling, an interior and fashion stylist who transplanted her family from London. The Old Pharmacy, also owned by Osip’s Merlin Labron-Johnson, is a wine bar and bistro in a 500-year-old building with stone salvaged from Bruton Abbey. Matt’s Kitchen is a spot one could only find in Somerset, with a seasonal set menu served in Matt’s home kitchen, only on Fridays and Saturdays.

Following the road out of town, Bruton keeps surprising. After moving to the area with their family, Iwan and Manuela Wirth later opened an outpost of Hauser & Wirth Gallery in a beautifully converted farmstead. Differing from their top spaces in Zurich and London, they chose to place this international art gallery in a town of 3,000 people, to become the first of their developed art centers. Not only does the space host international exhibitions, but it is also home to a Farm Shop celebrating local products from Durslade Farm (Chocolat was filmed in the Durslade buildings), Roth Bar for seasonal small plates and cocktails in an art-inspired space and Da Costa for traditional northern Italian food inspired by Iwan Wirth’s grandfather. Beyond the gallery lies Oudolf Field, a sweeping meadow designed by Dutch landscape architect Piet Oudolf. After a day of dining and shopping, I lost myself in the haunting, unflinching work of Don McCullin, one of the world’s greatest war photographers, who has lived in Somerset for the last few decades (he came as a child evacuee during the Blitz and returned years later as an adult).

Before we left, one of the shop owners advised us to check out a lovely gallery at the end of the road. Here we discovered Bo Lee Gallery, an intimate, approachable gallery within a former Methodist church highlighting international artists. Alice Kettle’s Balancing Act was on display, using thread to describe the tensions between what is fixed and what is in flux—between stability and precarity. Through the connection held by one thread, Kettle explores the relationship between pushing and pulling, the continual negotiation between opposing forces, where rupture and renewal are in a perpetual conversation. And here I was traveling to a place balancing this exact dance—chefs honoring traditional farming practices to create something entirely new, hotels paying tribute to their mystical legacies and the energy of entrepreneurs, artists and world-class galleries connecting the past to the future.

I was in Somerset for just two days. The visit was short yet invigorating—and transformative. As a fellow seeker, I know it was only the beginning of my relationship with this magnetic place. We left eagerly plotting our next return.