There’s a joyful bewilderment that comes from waking up in a strange place that you never expected you would reach. You experience a particular sense of wonder, made more intense by its proximity to fear, when your bones know that they have wandered very far from home. To wake up at sea, some 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, is to be very far from home, indeed. I imagine that every traveler to the Galápagos must at some point share the same astonishment that I felt every morning, rising from ...
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