A Safari by Sea: Sailing the Galápagos Islands with andBeyond

There’s a joyful bewilderment that comes from waking up in a strange place that you never expected you would reach. You experience a particular sense of wonder, made more intense by its proximity to fear, when your bones know that they have wandered very far from home. To wake up at sea, some 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, is to be very far from home, indeed. I imagine that every traveler to the Galápagos must at some point share the same astonishment that I felt every morning, rising from bed to gaze out upon the big blue. Some mornings, the horizon was broken by harsh crags of hardened lava sent forth from the earth’s core, or seemingly from outer space. Other mornings, the waves rolled gently into white-sand coves, where sea lions dozed in the surf. Others still, the sea would stretch out endlessly, in all directions, as we cruised.

The Galápagos Islands are a “bucket list” destination for most travelers, and they are best explored from the water. Most of us first learn about this volcanic archipelago in the context of a sea voyage—that of the HMS Beagle, which hosted Charles Darwin’s five-year study of the islands’ unique endemic wildlife that would ultimately give birth to the theories of evolution and natural selection. Avid birders come here to see blue-footed boobies, waved albatross and flightless cormorants as an essential stop for a big year; star-chasers cover miles to reach the equator for the chance to witness the Big Dipper and the Southern Cross in the same night sky; thrill-seekers plan years in advance to be able to scout for hammerhead sharks, dolphins and orcas. But even if your head does not fill with finches at the sound of the name, the Galápagos gave us “survival of the fittest,” and for that they will always inspire some degree of fascination, if only morbid, in our collective consciousness.

Aboard the new andBeyond Galápagos Explorer, travelers can island-hop along the eastern and western sides of the archipelago in search of peculiar creatures like giant tortoises, Sally Lightfoot crabs and lava gulls—and they can do so in near-total exclusivity. This 124-foot luxury expedition yacht welcomes just 12 guests for each week-long sailing, accommodated across four cabins and two suites that were beautifully furnished by local designer Adriana Hoyos. Two expert naturalists and 13 crew members lead each voyage, making andBeyond’s guest-to-staff ratio the most personal in the Galápagos. This region can be difficult for even the high-end traveler to access, due to limited boat permits and strict conservation policies. (Yet, each year, the number of visitors to the islands grows. 2024 saw the arrival of nearly 330,000 travelers, a record high; in the 1970s, when tourism was first developing in the Galápagos, the annual average was roughly 10,000.) During our sailing, our savvy guides managed to avoid the few other vessels on our route, and we enjoyed the privilege of having many excursions and sightings completely to ourselves.

The intimacy of the Explorer herself is a highlight, and she hosted her own moments of magic on board. Female frigatebirds liked to land on the top deck and survey us while suntanning. We jumped off the back of the boat to swim at the end of each day, when the water temperature was so perfect that you could float for hours. We watched Wes Anderson movies, sipped pisco sours and played Scrabble into the evening hours. We trundled off to the soft embrace of our cabins on perhaps slightly unsteady bare feet, and let ourselves be rocked to sleep. The Galápagos may be a highly regulated destination, but journeying aboard the Explorer gives travelers the freedom to have an experience that is entirely their own.

The daily itineraries are ultimately dependent on the weather, but most begin with an invigorating panga ride to one of the islands for trekking and wildlife-viewing. Each island has its own distinct topography and color palette: We surveyed Mad Max-like wastelands home only to cacti and lizards, hiked to red-sand lagoons where pink flamingos were napping, their necks twisted into figure eights, and drifted through lush mangroves where penguins, whitetip reef sharks and green turtles would come to breed. On these panga rides, we learned to search for ripples in the water and read them for signs of life underneath. For what is visible above the surface is only half of the Galápagos—you must go below it as well. And that is why most afternoons on the Explorer are dedicated to snorkeling.

Like falling through the looking glass, going below the surface reveals a completely different world of technicolored schools of fish, acrobatic sea lions and undulating rays. From the panga, you might observe a lone booby preening quietly on a rock’s ledge; below, it’s the aquatic Times Square or Shibuya Crossing. Snorkeling through the submarine chaos was strangely meditative, and it became my greatest pleasure of the trip to simply drift along with the waves, breathing in and breathing out. The aural weight of the ocean blocks out all the noise save for the clicking of crustaceans and the current rolling into the bedrock. There was space to think.

It was during one of these meditations, in particularly strong waters, that I received my lesson in survivalism from the Galápagos. As I allowed myself to be tossed back and forth in the push-pull of the swell, concentrating all my attention on the ecosystem below me, I noticed that the fish were moving in the same pattern as I was. Though they were in their native habitat, they too let the swell take them over, pausing to let the force of the sea charge through before continuing on their course. They didn’t fight the current.

The most human thing we can do is surrender ourselves to the workings of nature. Like many travelers before me, I have also come to this conclusion while on safari—and a trip to the Galápagos is just that: a safari by sea. Safari means “journey” in Swahili, and it’s a journey that is as much inward as it is outward. When we journey into these last strongholds of nature, like Kenya or the Galápagos, we also journey into greater connection with our own humanity.

Our last morning at sea, the weather forced us to abandon our scheduled itinerary. We cruised around in the panga before making a landing and hiking up to a viewpoint that looked out on the horizon. Frigatebirds circled overhead while gulls and boobies swooped below, kissing the waves. It was windy and overcast. Our hiking line had straggled out along the cliff’s edge, as someone stopped to photograph an iguana, or look more closely at a finch through binoculars, or fix their shoelace. I was watching the waves. Suddenly, a colossal manta ray shot out of the water like a spaceship and dove back down. The impact was booming, but the jump had lasted for no more than a second. I turned to my fellow travelers, awestruck and desperately hoping a few of them had seen it too. We all had. Lucky, for all that remained in the wake were the ripples.

1. Getting There

Travelers with U.S. passports do not need a visa to enter Ecuador for stays of less than 90 days; the passport must have six months’ validity and at least one blank page per stamp. To enter the Galápagos, you must fill out a quick online declaration form on the day of your departure flight, and your luggage must pass biosecurity inspection to prevent the introduction of foreign plants or animals to the islands.

2. East or West is Best?

For water-based Galápagos itineraries, sailings generally run for seven nights and explore either the east or the west side of the archipelago. A western itinerary will make stops in Santiago, Rabida, Fernandina, Isabela, Santa Fe, South Plaza and Mosquera, while an eastern itinerary will visit North Seymour, San Cristóbal, Española, Floreana, Bartolomé, Genovesa and Daphne Major; both sailings also feature time in Santa Cruz, which is home to the bustling town of Puerto Ayora, Tortuga “Turtle” Bay, the Charles Darwin Research Station and the El Chato giant tortoise reserve. Each of the islands offers unique topography and wildlife experiences, so be sure to review the details before choosing your route. Most travelers will also have a forced overnight stay in Quito on either end of the sailing schedule; our preferred hotel in the city is Casa Gangotena.

3. Force of Nature

Seasickness and sun exposure are two factors that all travelers to the Galápagos must contend with. Upon embarkation, be patient and give your body some time to adjust to being at sea—and make sure to drink plenty of water. (Everyone will react differently, but I, for instance, felt quite nauseous for the first few hours on the boat, and then I was fine.) Consult with your doctor prior to travel if you are concerned that you will be sensitive to the motion of the waves; a variety of remedies, from Dramamine to topical patches and prescription medication, can help. And don’t forget to apply (and reapply) high-SPF, reef-safe, water-resistant sunscreen diligently, even when it is overcast.

4. Safety Savvy

Travelers of all ages and fitness levels can enjoy the Galápagos, and when you choose a vessel with a strong staff-to-guest ratio like the andBeyond Galápagos Explorer, crew members can help tailor the itinerary to your specific needs and provide support. However, it is important for travelers considering the Galápagos to know that you will need to climb in and out of small panga (or Zodiac) boats on a variety of rough and sometimes unstable terrains (for both dry and wet landings), withstand intense sun and humidity, swim in strong currents with diverse marine life and maneuver about the vessel when the water may be rough. While children can certainly travel safely to the Galápagos, we generally recommend this trip for young explorers ages seven and up to maximize the experience.

5. What to Bring

Packing for the Galápagos is similar to packing for safari. It’s advisable to pack as lightly as possible, with soft-sided, carry-on luggage. You’ll need to bring essential gear like water and trekking shoes, hats and long-sleeved shirts, plus a few items that will make your adventures more comfortable—like wet bags, a waterproof phone case and electrolyte packets. See my full Galápagos packing list and tips here.