When I returned from India in 2011, I wrote: “This was one of the most amazing trips of my life. India, to my mind, is not just another country but a realm between reality (at times shockingly harsh) and fantasy (we did, after all, stay in palaces still inhabited by maharajahs and ride on royal horses and painted elephants). India is massive and has massive contrasts—beauty and brutality, poverty and pageantry—that force a traveler’s senses into overdrive. And yet a deep spirituality also pervad...