During a trip to Venice in September, our wooden Riva boat turned a corner and suddenly found itself in front of one of the massive cruise ships that ply the lagoon by the hundreds this time of year. Like a skyscraper floating on its side, the ship dwarfed the city, darkening the canals. There was the mint-tipped Campanile of St. Mark’s on one side, the spire of 16th-century San Giorgio Maggiore church on the other—symbols of power, artistic innovation and global trade during the height of the V...
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