In the bird sanctuary at the Farm at Cape Kidnappers, I tracked an endangered baby kiwi through a forest of white pines with a biologist. When we found it hiding in the thick forest duff, I held the delicate bird in my hand while we fed it juicy grubs to fatten it up. Later, I explored the undulating hills of the 6,000-acre property on a quad bike and was blessed by a singing Maori tribeswoman. The next morning in Taupo, I had breakfast by a crackling fire at Huka Lodge, then waded up a river in...
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