The childhood stomping ground of Greta Garbo, Stockholm’s SoFo (south of Folkungagatan) neighborhood has undergone a complete transformation since her late 19th-century tenancy, when the silver screen icon described the working-class area as “eternally grey.” Nowadays, a different demographic of Swedes inhabit the gentrified nave. Perhaps inspired by literary heroine Lisbeth Salander, whose fictional flat is just a few blocks north of the area, SoFo locals today are a mix of tattooed hipsters an...
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