I have been hearing talk of the beauty of Albania’s coastline for years, and now that Jared Kushner is rumored to be creating a private island resort there, it seems to be the Mediterranean curiosity of the moment. So I visited this spring to see if it is ready for luxury prime time—or even well on its way. While I discovered a government that is pro-tourism development (the president apparently sold Sazan Island to Kushner for one dollar) along with dramatic landscapes, a rich cultural heritage...