When I first landed in Madrid as a backpacking college student, I wasn’t charmed. The city served as a good gateway to more interesting parts of the country, I thought, but aside from the treasures locked away in the excellent museums, there was nothing much to see. Years later, when the opportunity to move to Spain arose, I argued for Barcelona as a home base. Forget it, said my Spanish husband. “Barcelona is a great European city, but Madrid is much more Spanish.”
And that’s where my love sto...
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