Whimsical Santa Fe rises out of New Mexico’s endless, stark desert landscape like a colorful oasis that teeters between over-the-top kitsch and expressive old soul. Many longtime visitors and, of course, locals bemoan the fact that seemingly the whole world has caught on to the charm of their little town, and it’s true that parts of Santa Fe are hopelessly overrun—and overdone. But during my recent trip to the New Mexican capital—the United States’ oldest, which will turn 400 years in 2010—I was...