The first time I traveled to Hawaii, our Maui-based friends took my husband and me to a secluded beach frequented mostly by locals. People were sprawled on towels, toddlers waded in the shallow water, and teenagers body-surfed. Suddenly, a collective murmur arose, and faces turned to the horizon. We stood up, eyes straining, and just made out a row of columns of white mist, the telltale sign of a pod of whales passing in the far distance.
The whole beach exploded into action at once, everyone—y...
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