Slow Burn: Exploring Ischia, Italy’s Geothermal Gem

Ischia, a volcanic jewel in the Gulf of Naples with restorative geothermal waters, has lured travelers to its romantic, rocky shores since antiquity. The ancient Greeks and Roman emperors came to soak in the mineral-rich waters, pirate raids prompted the construction of the looming Aragonese Castle and 19th-century European aristocracy spent their summers under the Ischian sun (as well as famous creatives like W.H. Auden and Truman Capote). And unlike its busier neighbor, Capri, the island’s terraced vineyards, quaint villages and cerulean coves still feel refreshingly undiscovered.

Indagare’s Trey Ross breaks down how to spend a weekend in Ischia—including a foodie’s dream trattoria, the best hotels for every budget and a beach club that’s serving life-altering Aperol Spritz.

While the island has no airport, getting to Ischia is easy. The most common route is to fly into Naples International Airport (NAP) and catch a 50- to 90-minute ferry or hydrofoil across the Bay of Naples.

Non-stop seasonal flights to Naples are offered through Delta Air Lines from JFK and ATL, while American Airlines operates direct from ORD. There is an extended seasonal non-stop service on United Airlines out of EWR if you plan to visit in the shoulder season.

Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is a time machine to a lost era of travel. While its architecture is undoubtedly impressive (the hotel is built around a salmon-hued 16th-century Aragonese watchtower that rises above a private cove), a stay here is anchored in understated glamour with crisp, white tablecloths swaying in the breeze, a pianist providing the perfect soundtrack to aperitivo and dramatic terraced pools that look pulled from a Slim Aarons’ photograph. Set at the far northwestern tip of Ischia, within a protected nature reserve, Mezzatorre is best described through its colors: pink scalloped umbrellas, the sapphire Tyrrhenian Sea, whitewashed walls, terracotta floors, a restaurant tented in ruby tapestries and pine forest greens pressing at the windows. To say something is magical feels like a cliche, but the service and scene at Mezzatorre cannot be described in many other ways.

The spa, which draws on Ischia’s volcanic thermal waters with serious intent, has a distinctly Art Deco, 1920s vibe—bedecked in green tiling, lush foliage and retro, round glass lamps; while La Torre Restaurant makes the most of the island’s larder, serving fresh seafood, homemade pastas, local rabbit (coniglio all’Ischitana) and vegetables grown in volcanic soil. A hotspot in the 1970s, Mezzatorre reopened in 2019 after an extensive renovation spearheaded by Hotel Il Pellicano’s Marie-Louise Sciò (and has quickly earned a cult status on par with its disco days). Checking out is devastating.

Perfect Day: Book the first reservation time at the spa for the balneotherapy circuit to enjoy the pools and sauna in complete solitude (and to cake your face in the volcanic mud masks); breakfast, alfresco, where the ricotta and pear yogurt is a must; lounging in the sun—taking turns between jumping into the sea and the heated pool; shopping in the fabulously splashy onsite boutique, with everything from Mezzatorre-branded merch to Pucci coverups; lunch at the sea-facing Ristorante & Bar La Baia, where you should order the fresh catch, carpaccio-style; an extended aperitivo hour at Bar La Torre for sunset, where oiled olives and cocktails flow generously.

Room to Book: Any of the Tower Suites, each with large bathrooms, envy-inducing walk-in closets and exceptional views over Bar La Torre and the Tyrrhenian Sea

Botania Relais & Spa is as much a living garden as it is a boutique hotel, totally mastering the art of bohemian “rural” hospitality. Draped across a hillside above the Gulf of Naples—and conveniently located only about 10 minutes from the port—Botania earns its name with lush subtropical vegetation spilling along terraced grounds. The 40 rooms and suites are housed across 10 maisons, which combine the surrounding nature with authentic Ischian architecture. (Plus, the property is committed to promoting sustainability, using only natural materials, alternative energy sources and locally-grown products from its own organic farm.) There are five restaurants and bars onsite, but the most exciting dining concept is Il Mirto—the first restaurant on the island to be awarded the Michelin Green Star—serving exclusively vegetarian and vegan dishes. Also onsite: an outdoor gym and serene spa. Visits include dips in the thermal baths and an epic grotto steam room. Botania appeals to the kind of traveler who has learned that one of the most sophisticated things a hotel can offer is stillness.

Perfect Day: Morning yoga class; indulging in the famous breakfast buffet on the bright terrace; relaxing by the pool; walking barefoot amid herbs and centuries-old olive trees; attempting to pet one of the elusive cats that call Botania home; picking fruit directly from a fruit tree; a trip to the spa for the MEI Ritual (an herbal bespoke scrub and massage combination)—ask for Milania and opt for the Dolce Vita, an intoxicating essential oil mix of sweet orange and lemon.

Room to Book: Open Plan Suite with Jacuzzi

In a natural inlet on Ischia’s quieter western coast, O’Vagnitiello is where the island sheds its polish and reveals something more elemental. Fed by natural volcanic springs, its thermal pools and bright yellow umbrellas cascade down toward the sea in a setting that feels like the Mediterranean in its most unhurried, unselfconscious sense. Locals have been taking to the waters here for generations—and that authenticity is precisely the point. The property itself is large (after all, it is a public thermal park) but there are only eight rooms. The service is extremely personal, with the front office helping with everything from boat and scooter rentals to transportation around the island and massages bookable through WhatsApp. The rooms are fairly rustic and have the basic amenities. (Three of us shared a room, so one was relegated to the camp-esque bunk beds—we had a lot of laughs and it brought us right back to our college days.) Visitors can dine at the panoramic restaurant onsite or grab drinks in the pub built on a stilt house. While this is not the hotel for travelers seeking fluffy robes and all the bells and whistles, it’s a testament to the fact that, sometimes, the best discoveries aren’t the most gilded ones. A stay at O’Vagnitiello offers something a bit rarer—genuine immersion in the rhythms of island life and endless soaks in the ancient mineral-rich waters.

Perfect Day: Moving between dips in the sea and the maze of thermal baths; lingering with a good beach read; grabbing wine from the restaurant and soaking in your room’s private thermal pool (which most have)

Room to Book: La Nina, with sweeping ocean views and a private terrace

Trattoria Il Focolare
Trattoria Il Focolare, a family-run trattoria tucked into the hills above Ischia, is the kind of place that luxury travelers often spend years searching for and locals have kept to themselves. The best dinner on the island, il Focolare has been cooking honest food for decades—and is the home of coniglio all’ischitana, the slow-braised rabbit dish that is as close to a culinary emblem as the island has. Meals begin on the rustic terrace with complimentary Ischian white wine and an artfully presented snack spread (flower accents included), but there is no rush, this is Italy. So after you’ve enjoyed some time alfresco, ideally for sunset, you’re ushered into a warm space lined with original movie posters from the Spaghetti Western films that were shot on the island. White tablecloths and old leather menus (only in Italian) give an air of bygone elegance, while the Riccio family members taking your order and the lively dining room have a cozy and convivial vibe. At some point during your meal, you’ll be whisked away to the cavernous wine cellar for a bit of the family history…including visits through the caves where rabbits are trapped. Don’t be shy to ask for help when ordering and plan your time accordingly—this is an experience. (For Stanley Tucci fans, this restaurant was featured in Searching for Italy.)

Restaurant Auras
Situated on the water with direct views of the Aragonese Castle, Restaurant Auras has a spectacular setting with food to match—expect Ischian classics like local rabbit, fresh seafood and sun-warmed vegetables. Lunch here, with the sea glittering below and a glass of Biancolella from the island’s own vines, is an afternoon you won’t want to hurry.

Ristorante il Mare
A seat at Ristorante il Mare is, in the most literal sense, a front-row position on the Mediterranean—the kind of table where the water feels close enough to touch and the catch of the day has rarely traveled far to reach your plate. Set along a cliffside at the Miramare Resort, diners can enjoy whole grilled fish, spaghetti alle vongole (heavy with briny island clams) and frittura di paranza, an irresistible heap of lightly battered small fry.

Giardino Eden Beach Club
The Beach Club at Giardino Eden Resort is Ischia’s answer to the effortlessly stylish lido. Here, along a sun-soaked stretch of the island’s southern coast, you’ll find rows of cream-colored sunbeds and direct views of Aragonese Castle. The kitchen turns out light snacks, fresh seafood, pastas and plenty of cold cocktails and wines. Reserve a sunbed or cabana on one of the sea decks for the most space—for sun-worshippers, beds on “the rock” get the most exposure. Polished, yet casual, this was a favorite afternoon on our trip (I indulged in more than one of the best Aperol Spritz I’ve ever had). For large groups, grab the booth table at the restaurant that hangs over the water for the ultimate, boho-chic late lunch.

Thermal Parks
While many of the hotels in Ischia have a spa element that leans into the thermal waters, a day at Negombo or Giardini Poseidon Terme puts the healing volcanic pools in the spotlight. Negombo, a beautifully designed sanctuary on the shores of San Montano Bay, is where thermal park meets landscape art. Founded in the 1940s by artist Luigi Mennella, the volcanic thermal pools (which range from cool to piping hot) were shaped with the eye of a sculptor, and the lush botanical gardens are planted with species from across the Mediterranean and beyond. (The park is open daily from May to October, from 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.; visitors should book in advance for full-day, half-day or afternoon entry.)

Giardini Poseidon Terme is the grand dame of Ischia’s thermal world—a vast, sun-drenched playground of pools, grottos and terraces cascading down to a private beach on the island’s southwestern coast. With more than 20 thermal pools fed by natural volcanic springs and heated to varying temperatures, Poseidon operates on a scale that is almost Roman in its ambition. The setting is Mediterranean-mystical with bougainvillea tumbling over stone walls and the Tyrrhenian Sea stretching to the horizon. Plus, there’s a restaurant and grotto-inspired winebar on site. Heaven! (Open daily from April through October 31. The standard park hours are 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., though it closes slightly earlier in the autumn.)

Boat Rentals
Explore Ischia like the ancient Romans and Greeks—or pirates—by boat. (This is a bit more luxe, though.) Indagare can arrange a privately chartered boat with a local skipper—who knows every cove and current—to spend the morning anchored off a sea cave on the wild northwestern coast or an afternoon drifting in the emerald waters below Sant’Angelo. Most charter companies will arrange everything—fresh provisions, local wine—leaving nothing to think about but where to swim next. Another option: taking the ferry to Capri, then chartering a boat to Indagare favorite La Fontelina. I’m still thinking about the fresh anchovies, spaghetti alle vongole and Limoncello Spritz. (Reservations are a must.)