Prague has quite a reputation to live up to. A nickname like “The Golden City” isn’t handed out with regularity, and it sets the bar high for a visitor’s expectations. This was not my first trip to Bohemia’s capital—like many, I made the pilgrimage in college to fawn over Kafka’s birthplace and Mucha’s prints—but I did see the city in a new light. “Golden” has a roped-off connotation; a sense that preciousness is kept behind closed doors, so I don’t think it’s the right description here. Rather,...