Tokyo may be famous for having the most Michelin stars of any city, but the real thrill of dining here to me lies not in securing the right reservation, but in finding sublime food in all sorts of unexpected places and humble settings. On a recent visit to Japan, I slurped ramen with a thick, rich broth at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with a doorway you had to duck into, ate melt-in-your-mouth toro tuna at a nondescript stall at the Tsukiji Fish Market and savored an exquisitely prepared kaisek...
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