Insiders
The Best of The Big Easy with Hotel Peter & Paul's Ari S. Heckman and Nathalie Jordi
The New Orleans credo "laissez les bons temps rouler" (let the good times roll) is taken very seriously. Shaped by three centuries of French, Spanish, African, Caribbean and American influence, this historic city on the bayou has a singular energy—and everyone is always eating, drinking and dancing.
One of our favorite Big Easy stays, Hotel Peter & Paul, epitomizes the whimsical and eccentric charms of New Orleans. Housed in a 19th-century Catholic schoolhouse and church, the spaces are cinematic—each room, suite and nook capturing a romantic Southern Gothic aesthetic. Whether you're checking in or just stopping by, the sumptuous Elysian Bar invites for an extra-extra-long cocktail hour, with an Old Fashioned (or two).
It makes sense that Ari S. Heckman, CEO of Ash—a boutique design and hospitality brand most recognized for its collection of lifestyle hotels like Neptune, The Siren and Ulysses—would want to transform a historic rectory in a city that comes alive after dark. "I find inspiration in travel, film and nightlife," Ari explains. "Where people of all walks of life come together to dance, and where new trends and styles are born." In New Orleans, the good times—and inspiration—never have to end.
To get an insider's look on how to best explore the city, we sat down with Hotel Peter & Paul co-founders Ari S. Heckman and Nathalie Jordi, a prominent local hotelier (whose resume also includes travel journalist, bicycle guide, cheesemonger and co-founder of People's Pops).
Morning Rituals
Ari S. Heckman (A.H.): I go for a jog along the Mississippi River and cross over the train tracks into Bywater Park. There's something really special about the juxtaposition between nature and industry that exists there.
Nathalie Jordi (N.J.): Dawn on Mardi Gras day is magical: the tourists are still sleeping, but locals are roaming the streets in incredible handmade costumes, carrying out local rituals like Skull & Bones, Black Masking Indians or the St. Anne's parade.
New Orleans punches above its weight in terms of culture, food, soul, friendliness, architecture and lifestyle. I love that it pairs the draws of a big city with the sweetness and ease of a small one.
Where to Grab Breakfast or Coffee
A.H.: Ayu Bakehouse, near our hotel, is a modernist gem in a charming old New Orleans building with excellent baked goods and coffee.
N.J.: Pond Coffee in Marigny has terrific third-wave coffee and a great locals' vibe.
Best Dining—Later in the Day
A.H.: N7 is a personal favorite for brunch or dinner with a wonderful outdoor patio and twinkling lights.
N.J.: I just discovered Patula, tucked away in the French Quarter courtyard behind local sunglasses shop Krewe. Stepping off the crowded street into this hushed, shady courtyard for natural wine and a great sandwich felt like a fun secret. For a special occasion, lunch at Commander's Palace, complete with 25-cent martinis and soufflé for dessert, is a classic.
Favorite Neighborhood to Wander
A.H.: The Marigny, where Hotel Peter & Paul is located, is near and dear. Its historically modest shotgun houses create a sense of scale that feels more Cuban than American, and there are tiny bars and restaurants mixed in on side streets and corners that always feel like a discovery.
N.J.: I'm a Marigny chauvinist! It's where I've lived since I came to town and I don't get sick of wandering through colorful homes, dive bars, snatches of overheard song and trees dripping with figs. When the jasmine is in bloom, my kids and I go on jasmine-smelling walks around the neighborhood.
For a Dose of Nature
A.H.: Audubon Park is memorable for its stately trees and gorgeous homes abutting the park.
N.J.: Recently, I rented a kayak to paddle through City Park. Past the sculpture garden and Café du Monde is a swampy wonderland filled with turtles sunning on logs, herons, raptors and trees dripping for Spanish moss. It felt remote and calming, even right in the middle of the city.
I think New Orleans is the most unique city in the United States with a fusion of culture, style and food that exists nowhere else.
For Big Easy First-Timers
N.J.: Catch a show at the Music Box Village, an incredibly creative sonic sculpture garden where the installation becomes part of the music. They draw musicians from all over the world for otherworldly shows.
Reading List
A.H.: A Confederacy of Dunces is an obvious one, but it really does hold water!
Published onOctober 19, 2026
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