Few stretches of coastline in the world are as dramatically—and so immediately, noticeably—beautiful as the Amalfi Coast, where pastel-colored villages cling to near-vertical cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea. The roughly 30-mile ribbon of road connecting Sorrento to Salerno passes through a half-dozen distinct towns—Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Praiano, Atrani, Cetara—each with its own character.
But the same geography that makes the coast so striking also makes it tricky to navigate: the two-lane...