It’s nearly midnight on my second day at Iceland’s Deplar Farm as the Northern Lights reach their strongest fluorescence of the evening. Reclining on a built-in lounge chair in the resort’s geothermally heated pool, I observe the phenomenon, which has been dancing across the sky in shades of green and the occasional violet, caused by colliding atomic oxygen and molecular nitrogen particles, respectively, for an hour. Buoyed by the endorphins still rearing from a day spent heli-skiing and fly-fis...
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