Why the Danish Countryside is Worth the Detour: Where to Stay, Eat & Explore

Many travelers come to Denmark for Copenhagen, and the city’s restaurant scene and design culture make it one of the most undeniably exciting capitals in Europe. But on a recent trip to this Scandinavian nation, I decided to venture off the beaten path—in the company of my Indagare colleague, trip designer Megan Coy—and quickly, we realized how much more there is to discover once you leave the city’s limits.

The Danish countryside is understated but quietly beautiful, especially in the areas that line the coast. Driving through the central island of Funen (or Fyn, in Danish), the landscape reminded us a bit of the English Cotswolds—but it is flatter and much more connected to the sea. Traditional homes—half-timbered construction, with thatched roofs or colorful facades—sit next to working farms. Funen is known as Denmark’s “kitchen garden” because of its fertile soil and orchards that supply produce for many of the country’s best restaurants. It’s also the birthplace of famed author Hans Christian Andersen (behind many beloved fairytales like The Little Mermaid and Thumbelina)—and there is certainly a storybook quality to it. In the mornings, you’re likely to see locals strolling through the villages to pick up their sourdough, as the fishermen are setting sail and sheep, horses and Highland cows graze in the open fields. The villages tend to be located around small harbors, showing just how central water is to life here. Denmark is a country of islands, and even when you are inland, the water is always just a short drive away.

What makes the Danish countryside particularly interesting right now, though, is its restaurant innovation, food culture and emerging wine scene. And in exploring this, I discovered that Denmark is a place that opens up through introductions. The more questions you ask, the more people are eager to share recommendations, connect you with someone they admire or suggest a place you might never find otherwise. On this trip, many of the most memorable moments came about exactly through that process, and while I am typically very planned in my travel style, in the “soft country” of Denmark—as one person described it to me—I let word of mouth be my guide.

Our first stop outside Copenhagen was Falsled Kro, a Relais & Châteaux inn nestled in the coastal village of Falsled, on the island of Funen. I learned about this property from a Danish friend—who I met in Norway last May—who recommended it as his favorite hotel outside of Copenhagen. Falsled Kro has only 26 rooms and suites, and the hotel experience is built around its on-site Michelin-starred restaurant.

The restaurant is led by Chef Simon Juel, who previously cooked at the now-closed Restaurant 108 in Copenhagen (the sister restaurant to Noma), and his partner Rosa, who manages the front of house team. Together, the young couple has created an experience that feels relaxed, welcoming and driven by passion for ingredients, food and hospitality.

Dinner here unfolds slowly but thoughtfully; guests should prepare for a long and considered meal. It begins in the bar, which is charming and centered around a striking fireplace, before moving into the dining room. Many ingredients come from nearby farms or the inn’s own garden, and the cooking reflects the ingredient-driven philosophy that defines New Nordic cuisine. One dish, for example, was a simple plate of in-season vegetables, which chef Simon covered in a delicious beurre blanc, tableside.

It was during this dinner that I tried my very first Danish sparkling wine, produced by a winery called By Stokkebye. I was immediately impressed, curious to learn more about it and excited, as I had no idea Denmark was producing such high-quality wines.

The next day, we had loose plans to explore more of Funen. Before leaving Copenhagen, I had shared my itinerary with Maria Oldenbjerg, the director at the Nimb Hotel, who grew up on the island. When she saw we were heading to Falsled, she said we couldn’t leave Funen without a meal at Restaurant Lieffroy in Nyborg.

We set out across the island, stopping en route at Egeskov Castle, one of the most striking Renaissance castles in Denmark, surrounded by water and gardens. Egeskov is just one of more than 100 historic castles and manor homes found on Funen. From there, we continued on to Lieffroy.

Restaurant Lieffroy sits directly on the water, overlooking the strait toward the island of Zealand (where Copenhagen is located). It has long been considered a destination restaurant in Denmark. We were welcomed by Helle Lieffroy, who runs the restaurant alongside her husband and head chef Patrick Lieffroy. Lunch began with a magnum of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 2014, followed by a series of seafood dishes that reflect the restaurant’s identity: scallops, local lobster and turbot with caviar, all prepared simply, with precision and paired with beautiful French-driven sauce work.

As the meal went on, I asked Helle about the Danish sparkling wine I had enjoyed the night before at Falsled Kro. She immediately knew it was from By Stokkebye. Within minutes, she called founder Jacob Stokkebye to arrange an introduction, and about an hour later, we drove 15 minutes through the countryside to his winery.

We pulled up to Jacob’s small winery tucked into the countryside, where he warmly opened his doors for our impromptu visit. Inside, the space was intimate and laidback. The room was lit by candelabras; there was a long tasting table laid out with his wines and stacks of books, many focused on Denmark’s evolving culinary scene. In the barrel room, a large Buddha statue watched over the vintages, which Jacob explained serves as a point of calm within the space; he also turns to it for good luck each harvest season.

As we worked through a private tasting of his wines, Jacob explained his approach to cool-climate winemaking in Denmark, from the challenges of the Nordic weather to the grape varieties that are performing best (Solaris is emerging as the dominant grape here and is one I had never tried before). He detailed the unexpectedly strong results he has been able to achieve, which he spoke about with a kind of giddy surprise. He splits his time between Champagne, Bordeaux and Denmark, and those influences come through clearly in his sparkling wines.

During the tasting, we learned that Jacob is a man of many passions and hobbies—something of a modern Renaissance man—who is deeply focused on exceptional ingredients and bringing them into the Danish culinary landscape. Much to my happiness, one such ingredient is caviar. Decades ago, Jacob spent time in Russia and Iran—then the epicenter for the world’s best caviar—which sparked a lasting interest in the product. He has since been selling caviar for over 25 years and now sources his own in Germany, working with natural lakes in Schleswig-Holstein. At one point, he brought out his tins and generously spooned bumps onto our hands. It was an indulgent and very memorable wine pairing to say the least.

From there, we continued on to our next stop. We crossed the never-ending Great Belt Bridge, connecting Funen to Zealand. Once on the other side, we traveled north to the Odsherred region, which is often referred to as part of the Danish Riviera, a coastal and hilly stretch known for its farms, small villages and growing food scene.

Here, we visited Vejrhøj Winery, owned by Nina and Niels Fink, who are considered early leaders in Danish wine production. This was another recommendation from Helle, and a visit she set up before we left her restaurant. Niels welcomed us into their home and walked us through the vineyard and winery, explaining how they built the estate and how their wines reflect Denmark’s cool climate. Many of their wines are now appearing on the lists of top restaurants across the country, as Danish chefs have started to increasingly look to local producers.

After the visit, we continued to our final stop, just five minutes by car from Vejrhøj: Dragsholm, a castle that dates back to the 13th century, which is now home to a one-Michelin-starred restaurant, a more casual brasserie and a Relais & Châteaux hotel. That evening, we opted for the brasserie rather than the tasting menu, after several days of long meals.

By the end of the trip, it became clear that the Danish countryside is a place to lean into the “soft country” experience—and let your plans unfold naturally. Our most interesting discoveries were sparked through spontaneous conversations and introductions. Ask about a wine you enjoyed, and you might end up meeting the winemaker. Ask a chef where they source their ingredients, and you might be introduced to a producer. Each recommendation builds upon the last, and gradually the region opens up in a way that feels immensely personal and unscripted.