Seven days before I boarded the plane, I made the decision to go gorilla-trekking in Rwanda—my first journey abroad since February. I was ecstatic but anxious. I felt like I was holding my breath for the entire week. I had traveled to several American national parks during Covid last summer, but I had not left the country. For this trip, I officially put myself on lockdown, postponing dinners and skipping runs to take extra precaution in advance of my Covid test. To enter Rwanda now, travelers h...
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