One minute you’re looking at a sign swinging high over a Nazareth street, its tall electric letters spelling out “M-E-R-R-Y X-M-A-S.” A half-second later you notice an Israeli flag hanging almost next to it, across the front of a building just twenty feet away.
One morning you’re driving through the Judean Desert, scanning a universe of rock and sand touched only by the wind since time began. Two hours later you count 70 highrises—and 12 construction cranes—from the roof of your hotel.
One day...
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