Ireland’s captivating charm reveals itself layer by layer. During my recent trip, I peered over the edge of the Slieve League cliffs, which plunge 2,000 feet into the Atlantic; I marveled at the sky’s rose and pumpkin hues over Ashford Castle, which dates to the 13th century; and I visited a private home, inspired by Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House, to view a contemporary Irish art collection. In Ireland, the prehistoric, the ancient and the modern collide and intertwine. A trip to the Emer...