An Insider’s Copenhagen Travel Guide: Maria Oldenbjerg, Hotel Director of Nimb

Maria Oldenbjerg is the hotel director at the Nimb in Copenhagen. The 38-room Nimb is the product of a stunning transformation of the so-called Bazaar, a whimsical building with a Moorish-inspired façade, into a boutique hotel and culinary destination, with several restaurants and a gourmet market. It’s also a child’s wildest dream come true: the hotel is located within the Tivoli Gardens, and guests not only get to overlook the fabled amusement park, but they also receive complimentary access to all the rides.

During my recent trip to Denmark, I had the opportunity to stay at Nimb and was immediately impressed by the high-touch, warm, thoughtful service at the hotel. This is largely thanks to Maria—a person you instinctually gravitate toward, wanting to enter her orbit. It quickly becomes obvious why her team has been with her since she started at the hotel in 2018. Small gestures throughout the stay make for a deeply personal, but not fussy, experience; staff greet you by name when you walk through the front doors, and gifts like sleeping masks, kimonos and handwritten notes by Maria wait for you in your room.

Maria’s office sits at the top of a spiral staircase looking out over reception, with floor-to-ceiling windows, giving her the perfect vantage point over the property. Perhaps it was that staircase—but she actually reminded me a bit of Dumbledore in Harry Potter: with obvious headmistress energy, she seemed able to wave her magic wand and make anything happen. She is that special type of individual who instantly makes you feel at home. Everyone in the room knows you are in good hands.

Maria has lived in Copenhagen since 2003 (originally hailing from the nearby island of Funen). I found her enthusiasm for Denmark to be completely infectious. She is eager and excited to introduce you to her friends and share her recommendations for how to plan and spend your days to ensure you experience the very best of Denmark.

Below, Maria shares her insider tips, favorite places and what not to miss in her beloved city of Copenhagen.

I truly love the changing seasons, the many opportunities the city offers and the energy here. Copenhagen delivers just the right balance of having plenty to do while still being small enough that you often run into people you know in your everyday life. It’s a wonderful place to live—it’s clean, safe, historic, beautiful and cozy, and it’s also incredibly well connected to the rest of the world.

Copenhagen is also a great city for walking. Even though it’s Denmark’s capital, with a population of more than one million people, the distances are small. And every neighborhood has its own unique charm. It’s an ideal place to explore—and to get deliberately lost in.

Traveling to and around Copenhagen is straightforward. The train from the airport to the city center is particularly convenient, stopping just across from Nimb’s entrance. The metro system offers a fast and easy way to navigate the city, and visitors will find that most Danes speak excellent English. Despite the stereotype that people in the Nordics are reserved, Copenhageners are generally polite, helpful and welcoming. The city is also known for its cycling culture, with well‑designed bike lanes and plenty of rental options. However, the pace can feel overwhelming for cycling beginners, so it’s best suited for those who are comfortable on a bike.

• Restaurant Vie is a relatively recent addition to Copenhagen’s dining scene and has received rave reviews across the board. It is definitely on my to-visit list.

• Båden, a café by the Christianshavn Canal, is on my list to try for breakfast.

• I love the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It has the most beautiful setting and atmosphere, and we send many of our guests there every day.

• Copenhagen Contemporary is always inspiring.

• For something completely different, a cozy communal dinner at Absalon Church is always a great idea.

For coffee: Prolog, Sonny or a to-go coffee from H A N S, followed by a walk along the water in historic Christianshavn.

For breakfast: The Union Kitchen is always a dependable choice, as are Ø12 and Cadence. On Saturdays, Admiralgade 26 serves choushoku, a Japanese brunch unique to the city.

For lunch: Pastis, which serves excellent bistro-style food, is a perennial favorite. For something simpler, it doesn’t get more “Copenhagen” than a relaxed lunch at the small boat rental in Christianshavn while the canal boats glide by on a summer day. For traditional Danish smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches), I’d recommend Møntergade or Fru Nimb. I could eat their celeriac dish every day.

For dinner: The Pescatarian and Bottega di Graziano are both casual spots that serve excellent food. For a high-end experience beyond the city’s many world-famous Michelin-starred restaurants, I’d recommend Mielcke & Hurtigkarl in Frederiksberg Gardens. It’s a beautiful restaurant in a lovely setting with wonderfully warm service.

For dessert: Ice cream from Kødbyens IS in Vesterbro. Their pistachio is to-die-for!

For drinks: Ruby is a classic, as is Nimb Bar with its signature cocktail menu. Ved Stranden 10 and Bar’Vin are charming wine bars with large selections of great wines by the glass and relaxed atmospheres.

Activities for first-timers: Take a boat tour, jump into the harbor with locals at Bølgen and visit Tivoli Gardens. Rent a bike and explore Copenhagen, see the changing of the guard at Amalienborg Palace and go bakery-hopping.

Things to do on repeat: Stroll through Frederiksberg Gardens, browse local shops, enjoy food and wine on Værnedamsvej and visit Nordhavn, a newer part of Copenhagen that’s really starting to flourish.

Annual cultural events: Seasonal celebrations in Tivoli—specifically during summer, Halloween and Christmas—are special for both locals and visitors. Friday rock concerts on the open-air stage are a highlight; from some of the rooms at Nimb, you can even enjoy the concert as if you were in the front row. Christmas is magical throughout Copenhagen as well, and many guests return year after year to experience the enchanting atmosphere.

Neighborhood to wander in: Frederiksberg. I used to work as a local real estate agent, and my daughter currently plays basketball there, so I spend many hours in the area. I love the energy, the cafés and the variety—it feels like home to me.

For a dose of nature: Amager Strand is my “hood”—take a walk around the lagoon and stop by the small, popular bakery Svaneke Brød, which makes the best BMO (roll with cheese) on Amager. The King's Garden is quintessentially Danish and a great place to have a picnic or a drink in the sunshine with Copenhageners. Dyrehaven, a forest park just outside Copenhagen, is beautiful, and you can ride around the area in a horse-drawn carriage. You can also take a trip to South Funen, where I’m originally from. Located about two-and-a-half hours away by car, the South Funen Archipelago is truly special and still somewhat undiscovered.

Wellness tradition: Jump into the harbor—something locals do year-round—and combine it with a sauna ritual.

For women’s clothing: LOT #29, Another nué, SKALL and GANNI. Copenhagen also offers a wide selection of great vintage shops. I would recommend visiting “The Area” (Møntkvarteret)—a charming neighborhood composed of a network of small streets filled with artists and artisans, that offers unique encounters and exclusive experiences with brand ambassadors and local shop owners.

For men’s clothing: Sand, Garodkin and Bindsbøl. Brunello Cucinelli also recently opened a new boutique that’s definitely worth a visit.

For a signature souvenir: Traditional Danish butter cookies from Juno the Bakery, a personalized cup from Royal Copenhagen or a pair of fitted gloves from Rhanders Handsker—one of the world’s oldest glove makers.

For gourmet food and wine: I love cheese, so I highly recommend visiting Helge’s Ost on Vesterbro/Værnedamsvej. The Torvehallerne food hall is also very fun; I could easily spend a small fortune there on specialties. In addition to its many cool wine bars, Copenhagen also has a lot of great shops that sell bottles from all over the world and in all price ranges. You’ll also find a wide range of natural wine shops, such as Volatil Vinhandel, Rosforth & Rosforth, and Vin de Table—all lovely boutiques with large selections.

The Danish 2021 Oscar winner for Best International Film, Another Round, is a fantastic movie with many scenes filmed around Copenhagen.

Several episodes of The Bear, one of my favorite TV shows, also take place in Copenhagen and portray the city beautifully. From a hotel perspective, the BBC series Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby is a must—especially Season 4, Episode 4, when they visit Nimb.

Tove Ditlevsen’s The Copenhagen Trilogy is an incredible reading experience and was included on The New York Times list of the 100 best books published since 2000. And, of course, Peter Høeg’s Smilla’s Sense of Snow is a must-read.