As one of those iconic resorts that’s been featured in books, films and gossip magazines so often, Capri is easy to write off as a destination that has become a caricature of itself, and to wax nostalgically about the days when the Italian island was still “undiscovered” And yet… in the 19th century, the visiting German poet Ferdinand Gregorovius likened it to a “dreaming sphinx,” and even today there’s something soulful and ethereal about Capri, especially its stunning, fragrant landscapes. Sur...