A Local’s Marseille: Where Le Collectionist Founder Max Aniort Eats, Shops & Escapes

Max Aniort knows the Mediterranean better than most. The co-founder and CEO of Le Collectionist, the Paris-based luxury villa company known for its carefully vetted homes, local teams and personalized approach to travel, has spent the past decade building one of Europe’s leading luxury rental brands, recently securing more than 60 million euros in funding from investors including the family office of Bernard Arnault, the CEO of LVMH group. Raised between Brittany, Saudi Arabia and Greece—and now splitting his time between Paris and Marseille—he brings both a global perspective and a deep appreciation for the places he calls home.

Travel shaped Max from an early age. Growing up with expatriate parents, he says there was “always an extra seat at the table and people coming and going from different parts of the world.” While he now enjoys family adventures—most recently introducing his four-year-old daughter to snorkeling in Bali—he also returns each year for road trips along the American East Coast, always in search of charming small towns. His latest discovery was St. Michaels, Maryland, which he says reminded him of Gilmore Girls and inspired dreams of one day settling somewhere similar. Yet he still looks back fondly on the backpacking trips in his younger years, when, as he puts it, “you could explore the world on just five dollars a day.” That sense of curiosity and adventure continues to shape the way he travels today.

We sat down with Max to get his insider take on his beloved Marseille—from the neighborhoods, restaurants and swim spots he returns to again and again to why France’s second city has become one of the Mediterranean’s most compelling destinations. Plus, he also shares a few bonus tips on what feels especially exciting in Paris right now.

Marseille is a paradoxical place, multicultural, a crossroads of civilizations, a real melting pot of communities, and you feel that everywhere: in the city itself, in the food, in the places people go. It's the second-largest city in France, right at the gates of the Calanques, this huge natural park. The city is both edgy and creative.

What I love is that even the newest places haven't lost touch with the city's DNA. I had the best bouillabaisse of my life at La Marine Des Goudes.

There's also this legendary nightlife energy, with live Corsican music and guitars, and on top of that, some incredible music festivals. And then you're only an hour from Provence with its villages, markets and vineyards.

What advice do you share with visitors before arrival?

1. Take a taxi in the evenings, especially if you're around Vieux Port (the Old Port).
2. Bring a comfortable and sturdy pair of shoes if you're planning to explore the Calanques. The terrain can be rocky and steep in parts.

Go shopping at Maison Empereur, Marseille’s beloved old-school institution for everything from housewares to traditional Provençal goods; hike through the Calanques and have a picnic; visit Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse, the modernist housing complex and design landmark built in the late 1940s; explore La Vieille Charité, the 17th-century cultural center in the heart of Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest quarter; and end the day at Palais Longchamp, one of the city’s grandest monuments and gardens. (And honestly, for me it’s mostly about making time for eating.)

Do you have any favorite restaurants that have opened recently or are on your radar to try?

Prosper in Cours Julien, a buzzy, wine-bar-meets-bistro spot for inventive Mediterranean plates; Poissonnerie Kennedy in Malmousque, a seafood-driven address with a sunny patio and a menu built around the day’s catch; and Suffren, a lively terrace restaurant near the Vallon des Auffes. For dessert, Monsieur Loulou in Malmousque is a favorite for artisanal ice cream after a swim or sunset walk.

What museums, exhibits or events are on your radar in Marseille this summer?

It’s not in Marseille proper, but I’d absolutely make time for the Rencontres d’Arles photography festival. It’s held each summer in nearby Arles (it runs from early July to October), and it’s one of the highlights of the season in Provence, with exhibitions, installations and talks spread throughout the city.

• Coffee: Deep Coffee Roaster, tucked just behind the Opéra, and Pétrin Couchette, a neighborhood favorite for excellent coffee and cakes.
• Breakfast: Pétrin Couchette (again), or House of Pain (“pain” means bread in French) for some of the best bread and pastries in the city.
• Lunch: Zinzin in Endoume is a bit of a “bobo” spot (trendy, local), but with incredible vegetarian cuisine by Anne-Sophie Baudoin, and a large, shaded terrace so you can eat outside.
• Dinner: Livingston for a date (it serves natural wine and Mediterranean tapas with a rotating menu); La Marine des Goudes if you’re with your partner (just be prepared for a lot of garlic); Suffren, which is a traditional French bistro, but you come here for the terrace; Prosper with a group of friends—ideally at the table under the tree (be sure to request it in advance); and Localino al Mare for its handmade pasta made to order right in front of you.
• For drinks: I like Gaspard for drinks, but its terrace is less charming, as it sits right on the avenue.
• For local food favorites and wine: Chez Pierrot for shellfish; Oh Faon for pastries; Monsieur Loulou in Malmousque for ice cream after a swim; and Chez Cécile for sandwiches, which are best eaten on the rocks just behind the shop, overlooking the sea. For a wine shop, I like Cœur des Vignes in the Endoume neighborhood.
• Beach club: Cabanon de Paulette, a small, family-friendly beach club with a relaxed vibe and some of the best sunset views. I’d also recommend La Baie des Singes, right at the far end of Les Goudes. Just be sure to reserve one of the solarium loungers in advance—and bring cash, as that’s the only way to pay. The sunset viewing is also excellent here.
• Hotel for a staycation: The rooms above La Relève are a great option if you want to stay in the heart of Endoume. It’s one of my favorite spots for evening drinks in the summer, and there are plenty of excellent restaurants and bars within walking distance.
• For shopping: Maison Empereur, Marseille’s historic institution for homewares, gifts and traditional local finds. This is also the best spot for souvenirs; you can buy traditional, authentic clothes and toys, as well as navettes, the city’s signature orange-blossom biscuits. And I’d go to Jogging for a more contemporary mix of fashion, design and Marseille cool.
• Favorite neighborhoods to wander: Endoume, Les Goudes, Malmousque and Vauban—all neighborhoods that still feel distinctly local and capture Marseille at its best.

Favorite day trips?

Arles for the Rencontres d’Arles photography festival; Lourmarin, especially during the Festival Yeah!, which is a music festival held in early June; Cassis, for the Calanques and boat trips to the caves; and La Ciotat, for its market and a long lunch by the water. The Côte Bleue for a wild stretch of coastline just outside Marseille; Sainte-Victoire for hiking or cycling; and, of course, the villages and markets of Provence.

Top wineries to visit?

My favorite is Le Paternel in Cassis, which makes an excellent white and, in my opinion, the best rosé in the region (the world, really!).

Best beaches?

Honestly, I’d recommend taking a boat trip around the Calanques rather than focusing on Marseille’s beaches themselves. If you’re after a proper sandy beach, head farther into the Var—the first really beautiful ones start around Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer and Les Lecques.

Events to plan for?

The Oursinades in Carry-le-Rouet is always really fun; it’s a sea urchin festival that takes place every Sunday in February. The port of the seaside village of Carry-le-Rouet turns into an open-air seafood market.

Most people leave Paris in the summer—I’ll be between Cap Ferret, Marseille and the West Coast, from Île de Ré to Biarritz and Brittany—but if you do find yourself in the city, two of my favorite spots for drinks outside are Sister Midnight, a newer cocktail bar, and Classique, just a few steps away, which draws more of a fashion crowd.

A favorite restaurant?

I love Auberge des Crus for comforting French classics like sausage and mash, onglet steak with fries and chocolate mousse.

What part of Paris’ creative scene are you most excited by?

The architectural and design scene feels especially exciting at the moment. There’s a growing number of young designers making their mark, including Léonie Alma Mason and Hugo Toro, and it’s exciting to watch this new generation take up more and more space.

What are your favorite recent openings in Paris—from restaurants to galleries or shops?

51 Iéna, the new private members’ club in the former home of the art collector Calouste Gulbenkian, is a beautiful project and worth seeing for the architecture alone. I’m also excited about Le Grand Café for its outdoor space and seafood.

What’s one Paris culture tip you’d give someone planning a trip this year?

If you’re in Paris this year, I’d make a point of visiting both the Opéra (Palais Garnier) and the Musée d’Orsay while you can, as both are expected to close for major renovations in the coming years.