Berlin is a massive place to explore, both geographically and emotionally. It’s also a city whose stereotypes precede a visit—some warranted, others false—and whose nuances are hard to grasp from abroad. For example, while I roughly knew the path of the Berlin Wall, I didn’t really understand its everyday madness until I stood in the quiet of the Invalidenfriedhof, a graveyard by the Spree river that was divided by the wall (if grandma was buried on the other side, you were sheer out of luck as ...
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