Editors' Picks

Flour + Water

2401 Harrison Street San Francisco


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Flour + Water may have started out by following the trend of high-end pizzerias with communal dining, but the quality of the food and the lines out the door are testament to the fact that this small Mission eatery has gone from trend piece to mainstay. The dining room is divided into a high communal table and separate bar seating up front and an intimate room with rustic wooden tables in the back.

This democratic, communal approach puts everyone in a congenial mood. The crowd when I was here ran the gamut from young hipsters in skinny jeans to more mature gourmets who had clearly not lined up for a meal in a long time (though everyone was a good sport about it). The edited, focused menu is worth the wait. That the food is farm-to-table and often changing is a given in San Francisco, but co-chefs Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow have the creativity to elevate dishes from merely seasonal to truly memorable. My meal included a refreshing spring salad with radish, kohlrabi, shaved fennel and tarragon; a side of sautéed kale with raisins, lemon and ricotta salata, and one of the much-lauded pizzas, a flavorful thin-crust concoction piled with black trumpet mushrooms, green garlic and fior di latte. All was washed down with a crisp Falanghina and topped off with a rich chocolate dessert, served with espresso-caramel cream and sea salt. Chocolate and sea salt? A trend, for sure, but in Flour + Water’s candle-lit dining room, it simply tasted like the perfect conclusion to a flawless meal.

Written by Simone Girner

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