Style Guide to Rome

Style maven Cristina Ferraro Cenci, a part-time Rome resident, shares her city favorites.

Favorite Restaurants

I like Montevecchio (Piazza Di Montevecchio 22 a), which has just a few tables, a great menu and atmosphere. Also don’t miss Pastificio San Lorenzo (Via Tiburtina 196; 39-06-9727-3519) in Testaccio, a neighborhood that reminds me of New York’s Meatpacking District, Riccioli Caffè (Via delle Coppelle 13; 39-066-821-0313) and Il Bacaro (Via degli Spagnioli 27; 39-06-686-4110), which is charming and intimate. I also like Casina Valadier (Piazza Bucarest; 39-06-6992-2090) at the Villa Borghese.

Favorite Bar

The Wine Bar at Obicà (Piazza Campo dei Fiori 16), in the heart of Rome; any place in Testaccio, especially Said-Fabbrica del Cioccolato (Via Tiburtina 135), which is good for dessert or a glass of wine.

What Not To Miss On A First Visit

Besides the usual and obvious monuments, I would plan a trip at the Catacombe, the underground city where the Christians hid and were buried at the Roman Time.

What Not to Miss on a 15th Visit

Scuderie del Vaticano 

(Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16), a great museum in the building where the Popes used to keep their horses. The place has been renovated by Gai Aulenti. Also, the Museo d’Arte Moderna (Viale delle Belle Arti 131), where you can see the exhibitions and have lunch at Caffe dell Arti (Via Antonio Gramsci 73).


Don’t miss Maxxi, the museum of contemporary art designed by Zaha Hadid, which sits near the interesting Parco della Muscia auditorium created by Renzo Piano. I also love Chiostro del Bramante (Arco della Pace 5) and the Palazzo delle Esposizioni (Via Nazionale 194).


Besides the usual streets—Via Condotti, Frattina—Via del Pellegrino and Via del Governo Vecchio are worth a walk. For a unique experience, head to Atelier Fabio Salini, on Via Monserrato, where each jewel is a piece of art. And of course, Davide Cenci, has all the best of fashion in one elegant big store that we think of as the Italian version of Bergdorf Goodman. And around the corner you can find the most delicious ice-cream in town: Giolitti.

Day Trips


and Porto Ercole have beautiful sandy beaches (La Feniglia or Giannella) with great restaurants. I love La Capannuccia (Via Spiaggia 8, Ansedonia), Il Tramonto (Strada Provinciale della Giannella 233) and L’Ultima Spiaggia (Via delle Emarginule, Fiumicino), on the coast towards Rome. But don’t ever go on the weekend when it is too crowded. Weekdays or off-season is the way to go. Closer to Rome, there’s Fregene with a spectacular lunch at Mastino (Via Silvi Marina 19).

Published onJanuary 31, 2011

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